Dormer side wall - concrete tiles

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Hi,

I’m about to lay Marley plain concrete tiles on my vertical dormer cheeks. I’ve never done this before but can see that if I just put a normal tilting batten down for the angle cut tiles at the base rake abutment(slope of the existing roof) then these angle cut tiles will sit with their ‘short edge’ on the tilting fillet and their ‘long’ edge unsupported.

How do I get around this.

Another couple of questions-

Should I have the tilt batten on top of the lead gutter or below it? I’ve seen both in pictures.
What is best for the abutment gutter GRP or lead?
If I use lead I know I should not put it on top of roofing felt but is it ok to put breather membrane on top of the felt then lead on top of the breather membrane?
I'll have a lead apron at the base of the window and a few inches up the side - but do I also need lead up the rest of the window - or can I use sealant?

Thanks

Tony
 
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If i was you i would put lead on my dormar cheeks as apose to tiles.If its cost your bothered about then why not use pvc cladding,cheap and will last for many a year.
 
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Should I have the tilt batten on top of the lead gutter or below it? I’ve seen both in pictures.

the lead should be dressed over the fillett.


What is best for the abutment gutter GRP or lead?

code 5 lead.

If I use lead I know I should not put it on top of roofing felt

who told you that? ideally you should lay the lead sheet on geo-tex but for a valley wont make any difference imo.



do I also need lead up the rest of the window - or can I use sealant?

finding it difficult to understand what you mean!!
 
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How are you going to shape the apron @ the front - it`s supposed to be a complete tray for the window to sit on :idea: Leadburned intricate shape to fit ;) I`ve seen a few that are just flaps tacked on for show :) Lead over bitumenous felt - half truth there - that type shouldn`t be used as an underlay on a flat roof leaded- old tyme used to be a non bitumen felt underlay, now modern equivalents.
 
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Thanks for your replies – but nobody has answered my main question about the special tilting fillet required at the rake for the angle cut tiles! This really has me stumped because if I have to use a separate tilting block under the longer edge(lowest cover) of every cut tile then I can’t see how I can dress lead over a block.(Tilting block recommended in tile fitting literature( Clay Roof Tile Council – Vertical tiling Sec 18 page27
www.clayroof.co.uk/educational_guides/vertical.pdf )

To answer the questions you all put back to me:-

When I say not to put lead on top of felt I mean bitumen felt (Apparently in hot weather the bitumen can melt and stick to the lead which stops the lead from expanding with the heat and the lead cracks.)

I don’t like the look of a lead walled dormer.

I will have a lead welder make me a dormer apron for base of dormer and also a window tray.
(Been quoted 550+vat. 3 dormers, dormer apron width 270cm(code 4) window tray width 179cm code 5) I thought this was reasonable.

Regarding the window sealing I mean that the window tray will extend up the window jamb a few inches but above that how do I seal – will just a bead of good sealant do? Is it ok to put sealant on lead or does it inhibit the lead from expanding and make it crack – like the bitumen felt? In the same window jamb area I plan on sealing the gaps between the tiles/plywood with a vertical strip of wood/wood effect plastic nailed to the batten edges. What do you think?
 
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