Drain system down stop cock B**gered.

[robbie77]

I need to replace the CH pump after I have tested it and know its faulty.
The stop cock is was a bit rounded off so getting it with adjustable spanner wasn't happening. I then attacked it with the vice grips and its completely managered now. I'm not sure what to do!? Is it a question of getting the mop bucket out and being a messy job now? Any tips?

Thanks

 

[holty]

which stop cock are you talking about. your mains or you talking about the pump valves. in any situation. if mains stopcock then tie up the ballcock to the f and e. and drain the ch system. same goes for, if your pump valves are knackered. in any case you should replace them. you could bung the system. eg vent and feed. but best safer option would be a drain down.

 

[robbie77]

Ah Sorry. The wife rang while I was typing and distracted me.
I meant drain cock!
Sorry!

 

[holty]

then isolate a rad. if lower than the pump you could take out either the rad plugs e.g bleed valve. then get an 1/2 inch drain off ind insert were th plug would have been hey presto. or you could drain the rad take it out of the way. then use an adaptor to fit the rad valve so you can get a hose on it. worst case is get one of those self tapping washing machine adaptors. to fit 15mm pipe. and attach a hose adaptor to it. usually pick em up from your local shed.

 

[Whitespirit66]

Haven't you got valves either side of the pump?

Can't remember ever having a drain cock that was that tight.

Is it the only one? Sometimes there are others on rads or under/near the boiler.

 

[robbie77]

I must be unlucky with the drain cock then..


No valves where the pump is but the system is very old.
Might have to try the washing machine lead on a rad trick and then repair the drain cock.
Will the drain cock screw full unscrew so I can replace that and put the compression fitting back on. I just thought I could remove the screw once I've taken the fitting off and dismantled it on the bench and that way don't have to upset the olives by trying to adapt old/new compression fittings?

Hope that makes sense!?

 

[robbie77]

Untitled

• robbie77
• 15 Mar 2011
• 1

This is the lowest rad I have to drain the system down. I can't turn the heating on to check which is flow and which is return. The rad was added after the initial install in the last 10 years.
Is it anyones guess which is which? I need to block off the flow add my washing machine pipe and drain her down.......

Thanks

 

[misterdubya]

Turn both Rad Valves off, drain rad & remove. Then attach hose to Wheelhead Valve on the right of your piccie & drain as previously described.

Once drained, replace the rad valve with drainoff incorporated.

Replace rad, pump valves & pump, refill & vent / test.

Mr. W.

 

[misterdubya]

Any chance of a piccie of the old pump in situ?

Mr. W.

 

[robbie77]

Untitled

• robbie77
• 15 Mar 2011
• 1

I'm afraid its a dreadful picture as I took with camera phone in poor light and no flash.
Sorry It's all I have.

Its low down with limited access, dark and grim,

 

[misterdubya]

Well, it does have valves - which have no chance of working by the looks of the piccie.

Mr. W.

 

[robbie77]

Right I've bought a new pump and valves and now need to make sure I definitely need it.
Heating was only working on two rads upstairs and the hot water tank in the loft was getting warm. Its an old gravity fed system.
I tested the pump for live, neutral etc and got good readings when the boiler was on. I turned the bleed screw and got a dribble of water out.
The pipe after the pump did not get warm but the pump itself got very warm

I removed the bleed screw and could not get visual on the pump turning so poked a pencil in and felt no resistance. So I assumed it is the pump?
Sound feasible?

I can see the valves on the pump now there is slotted screw that looks a bit rusty that must be a ball valve? So think I'm going to drain it down to be on the safe side.

Any other tests I can try on the pump to make sure? it was quite expensive!

Thanks

 

[misterdubya]

Your pump is dead!

Until Agile gets here and tells you to to test it again, just drain it and put the new pump and valves in. Dont use the 'ball' type.

Get on with it, you'll have it done in a couple of hours.

Mr. W.