Draining a tank with no drain cocks

[mikeloker]

I am planning on installing a combination economy 7 cylinder in the loft and removing the existing from the bathroom to free up space. The existing tank is a combination indirect, not vented, with economy 7 immersion heaters.

Now the fun starts ! There is no boiler in the property ! The pipes that feed the heating coil dissappear under the floor to where ? No idea, could be into next door even ! Joking. There does not appear to be any drain cocks on these two pipes and I don't know if they have water in them. I have traced and identified all other piping, I am pretty sure they were connected to a boiler of some description at some stage

Questions
First stage, how to tell whether the pipes have water in them. If they have water in them then how do I drain them to enable me to disconnect from the tank and blank off.

 

[nstreet]

How about fitting one of these http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=101168&ts=44532&id=13768 on to an exposed piece of pipe (as near to ground level as possible). Then you can at least drain the tank if its full

The section of pipe will of course need to be replaced after using the tap.

 

[gas4you]

Punch a small hole just big enough to fit a hose in at the highest point of the main tank and syphon off the tank of water.

 

[mikeloker]

I am planning on installing a combination economy 7 cylinder in the loft and removing the existing from the bathroom to free up space. The existing tank is a combination indirect, not vented, with economy 7 immersion heaters.

Now the fun starts ! There is no boiler in the property ! The pipes that feed the heating coil dissappear under the floor to where ? No idea, could be into next door even ! Joking. There does not appear to be any drain cocks on these two pipes and I don't know if they have water in them. I have traced and identified all other piping, I am pretty sure they were connected to a boiler of some description at some stage

Questions
First stage, how to tell whether the pipes have water in them. If they have water in them then how do I drain them to enable me to disconnect from the tank and blank off.

Thanks Dave but its 22mm pipe, cannot find a 22mm self cutter on the net yet

 

[mikeloker]

Punch a small hole just big enough to fit a hose in at the highest point of the main tank and syphon off the tank of water.

Can drain the tank no problem, its the heating coil thats the problem as I cannot find where the (I assume) capped off ends of the pipe are as the boiler they went too was removed when Adam was a lad. Could try cracking the couplings I suppose, if water comes out I will know they are still wet

 

[Symptoms]

Mike - if you live in a pre-war house the disappearing pipes probably went to a back-boiler at the rear of the fireplace. This boiler was often a cast iron tank heated by the open coal fire.

 

[mikeloker]

Mike - if you live in a pre-war house the disappearing pipes probably went to a back-boiler at the rear of the fireplace. This boiler was often a cast iron tank heated by the open coal fire.

I wish ! House built in 70`s local authority,no trace of any fire places what so ever ever being in situ, assuming there was a wall mounted boiler of some discription to the rear of the property, however no evidence as an extension has been built on the rear. Just remembered.When stripped out the kitchen 2 years ago, on what would have been an outside wall before the extension, there was a squarish hole in the inner wall just above floor level, aprox. 18" W by 28" tall, thinking about it, quite possible this housed a boiler of some sort with a chimney up the outside of the wall, possibly the old asbestos type, as slight discolouration to the brickwork high up above the extension roof. No evidence of pipework when hole uncovered, in the walls, ceiling or anywhere else. If this is the case I will assume the are capped and drained and its reasonable to assume the pipes on the combi tank to the coil can be disconnected and tank capped. Would everone agree

 

[cowboyplumber]

Heat the pipe with a blow torch, run solder on to it.
If it don't run its got water in it....

 

[mikeloker]

Heat the pipe with a blow torch, run solder on to it.
If it don't run its got water in it....

Thanks cowboy, sounds like a very sensible suggestion will try at the week-end, better move the wife`s airing first though, just in case I go with the blow torch watch this space ! Thanks once again

 

[sambotc]

Got a load of air vent's around the house? Maybe an old warm air unit if it's 70's council.

 

[mikeloker]

Got a load of air vent's around the house? Maybe an old warm air unit if it's 70's council.

Yes it is warm air central heating which is working O.K. Are the coil pipes connected to the unit ???? Controls on the unit are shot to hell, some one has been messing with the wiring behind the control dial on the front of the unit. Thought of an indirect system being connected into a warm air would have never of occured to me


Perhaps I need an expert !!

 

[Agile]

The warm air units often had a small gas water heater on the right hand side.

That will usually have a normal F&E tank in the loft or near the cylinder.

Tony

 

[mikeloker]

The warm air units often had a small gas water heater on the right hand side.

That will usually have a normal F&E tank in the loft or near the cylinder.

Tony

Thanks Tony will investigate tonight. I am sure when I say no header tank anywhere in the loft and not near the cylinder. There is no cold outlet from the header tank on the cylinder, but will have another crawl around, thanks for the tip

 

[mikeloker]

The warm air units often had a small gas water heater on the right hand side.

That will usually have a normal F&E tank in the loft or near the cylinder.

Tony

Thanks Tony will investigate tonight. I am sure when I say no header tank anywhere in the loft and not near the cylinder. There is no cold outlet from the header tank on the cylinder, but will have another crawl around, thanks for the tip

Have checked and Tony is correct, thank you, now have a way forward,have the water heating unit capped off as it looks as if at some stage it has leaked. Anyway the electrics are all shot. Unit is a Minarva WAE/C

Would like to thank all those who replied for their help and assistance, may have sounded like a complete whally at times but your replies have made a hell of a difference, Thank you all

 

[sambotc]

Have checked and Tony is correct, thank you, now have a way forward,have the water heating unit capped off as it looks as if at some stage it has leaked.

How come he get's the credit for my suggestion!

Sam