I'm trying to drain this, but the manual is not written in a language I understand. It mentions a "drain point" on the underside of the system, but I don't see anything. Does anyone have any experience with these boilers?
The DHW store can be drained from underneath (after isolating cold feed) on the right hand side as you look at the boiler, straight up probably a 13mm box spanner but memory is rusty.
To the left hand side on the pipework underneath is a heating drain point. If you don't find it, simply take the sump nut off the cyclone filter and it will drain there instead, and you can clean the plug which may have a small amount of solid matter in it. (though in my experience it is an ineffective piece of claptrap)
OK - Thanks. Hopefully, I'm staring to get close. Below is the plan from the manual. I can find "I", the hot water tank drain point. "G", the CH drain, is still illusive. I can't see anything like "I" where the CH water can be drained from. Can you point me in the right direction?
Plan:
My system is below. Is it the part with the two black arrows pointing at it (not on the plan!)? If it is, I guess I'm draining the system to buckets as there is nothing to fit a hose to.
Yes it is that, I used box spanner think it was 1/2 inch 13mm but not sure.
We put a short length of rubber gas hose onto those types of drain off and sit it in a bucket. The boiler has little in it. You can trust the alpha iso valves.
It looks like your installer has put an install pipe in such a way as to make your cyclone filter inaccessible. However I wouldn't be all that worried as they aren't much cop anyway.
I generally find that installers who don't do breakdown work are thoughtless when doing their pipework. You wouldn't want him back for repairs anyway because he'll be clueless, as anyone who knows anything about fixing Alphas wouldn't do that.
We wouldn't drain the whole system from the boiler these valves are quite slow.
What I do is shut both valves to the lowest rad, using a low level tray like a gardening tray or a paint roller tray empty the rad. Remove one of the valves and make up a fitting to fit the stub in the rad, connect a hose to that, open the other rad valve and whole system drains quick speed with no leaks.
The traditional drain offs which look innocent leak water from every orifice, which runs down your hose and also drips from the body of it. So you waste a l;ot of time plumping up the joint and running the hose carefully and all sorts of titivating you have to do. No above method is best.
Unless the drain off is under the floorboards or outside which is where it should be.
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