Dream glass

[coopersim]

Does anyone know how to diagnose a fault on a dream glass dg-12 controller? Seems to be dead. Fast blow fuse had failed replaced and still nothing. No obvious caps failed inside.

not sure where a replacement unit can be obtained as the company doesn’t seem to have a presence in the uk

 

[RandomGrinch]

Hi,

I'm not sure how much I can help, but I can have a go!

Is this just for switching a glass panel between clear and opaque?

Is this a power supply for a panel, or a controller?

I can't find any information about the item you list, but the installation manual for the modern controllers states: if a fuse blows; 'possible short circuit or earth fault on the power drive output wiring. Check the wiring and replace the fuse':



Not exactly helpful!

Other than that, the power supply should supply a 60V AC output. Have you got a multimeter to investigate?

 

[coopersim]

Thanks for the information, I'd also found this which refers to the supplies being able to power 7m2 of glass (which is less than the installed area in question, though it's worked for several years).

I can't see a dead shot on the outgoing wiring to the glass, but I don't know what the expected resistance reading should be.

It has worked perfectly until a recent storm let water pass in to the wall adjacent to the potential route for the wiring to the glass - possibly where the glass fly leads are all connected but I'm guessing.

There's definitely more to the unit than just a power supply, there's a lot of electronics inside it but no sign of anything obviously wrong like a blown cap.

I've written to the Spanish manufacturer in the hope of some help.

 

[RandomGrinch]

I haven't been able to find a UK distributor for Dream Glass; there seems to be a pretty healthy amount of UK smart glass manufacturers, such as intelligentglass etc.

I suspect the technology in the panels themselves, is pretty similar between brands; an alternative supplier may be able to service the panels.

If you can take a resistance measurement, we should be able to calculate a current draw; given the 60V AC supply @120VA nominal power (guessing from the new controllers. Posting some photos of your unit may help).

It's a possibity that some damage was done to the PSU, if water got into the connections. Hopefully they have dried out by now!

 

[coopersim]

Thanks again for your help! The unit doesn’t appear to have got wet and isn’t immediately in the area where the damp patch on the wall is, but it is between the units location and the glass panels.

here’s some pics of the unit:

 

[RandomGrinch]

Well the 120W ties in nicely to the expected 120VA!
It is an integrated controller and PSU.
There appears to be a display on the front - I guess this would normally display something if it was working?
You have probably tried this already, but have you plugged it into a different socket with a different lead (and without the load)?
If that doesn't work, then the PSU has probably failed.

However, the resistance of the panels will still need to be checked, or a new PSU could also be damaged!

I may be wrong but:
P/V=I
60V @ 120VA = 2A max current
V/I=R
60/2 = 30 Ohms minimum resistance

If the resistance of the panels is greater than 30 Ohms, they're probably ok?

 

[coopersim]

Sorry for the slow reply my meter isn’t registering any resistance across the connections to the glass at all

 

[RandomGrinch]

As in 0 Ohms - short circuit?
I'm afraid if that's the case, your problem isn't just the power supply, and that may explain the PSU dying
Just to be sure, is your meter autoranging?

 

[coopersim]

Sorry no as in, in excess of 999mohms

 

[RandomGrinch]

Interesting. I can't say For sure, but that is probably ok, depending on which technology is used in the panel.
At least it shows that if there was a short circuit caused by a leak, then that isn't an issue any more!

My next trouble shooting step may be to beg, borrow, or steal an AC power supply. Voltage shouldn't matter (say below 30V AC, not more!) and see if that causes some dimming of the panel.
But, your panels are expensive. You don't have to risk them by doing that.

I may be tempted to contact intelligent glass, or a similar UK company and see if they have a controller that is compatible with your panels.

 

[coopersim]

I think your advice is sound and I really appreciate your help.

I will be calling them tomorrow for some help as I can’t risk connecting voltage directly to them ( the inside of the controller has much more than just a switching power supply )

thanks again

 

[bernardgreen]

I suspect the technology in the panels themselves, is pretty similar between brands;

I looked at electro-opaque glass for one of the windows in my cottage where access to a roller blind would be difficult. the price put it out of the question.

There are several different types. Some are opaque when voltage is applied, others are opaque when there is no voltage applied.

 

[RandomGrinch]

I looked at electro-opaque glass for one of the windows in my cottage where access to a roller blind would be difficult. the price put it out of the question.

There are several different types. Some are opaque when voltage is applied, others are opaque when there is no voltage applied.

The information I found when I was digging into this, suggested that Dream Glass used a constant 60V AC to maintain opaqueness.
The controller @coopersim has, includes USB and wireless capabilities.
I can't recommend that anyone plays with connecting a 60V AC PSU directly to the panels - especially given the huge costs involved. However, I suspect that it would work!
But, that gives me hope that a (more easily contactable) UK supplier may be able to provide a compatible controller.

Good luck @coopersim

...another idea, maybe a local electronics repairer could have a look at the supply?