Hi all,
I'm having an extension built at the moment, and part of the works involves moving the oil boiler into a single skinned block outhouse that is adjacent to the house.
Building control aren't interested in the boiler cupboard (for want of a better term) as there isn't going to be a rad in there and the door connecting it to the house will be external grade e.g. have required thermal properties - but I'm planning on dry lining it to make it a bit more presentable (currently raw blockwork).
From reading this forum I think I need to dampproof the walls and then hang some foil backed plasterboard which leads me to the following questions:
1) Damp proofing - the shed/boiler cupboard has a hefty slab of concrete for a floor which the builder is reluctant to dig out as the room is not subject to building regs. He is going to apply bitumen to the floor then some self-leveling compound to bring the floor to required height (the slab is less than 25mm lower than the floor level) - Can I apply the same bitumen to the walls to damp proof them?
2) Hanging the plasterboard - should I dot-and-dab the plaster on to the bitumen layer or should I frame it with treated timber.
3) if hanging plasterboard on timber frame (probably better as I'm handier with a drill than I am a trowel
) Should the frame be built off the wall or attached direct to the wall? I ask this as the cupboard is only 4' by 6' and building a 3x2 frame set off the wall seems overkill!
I found this site whist googling: http://www.worthing.gov.uk/Planning...anceNotes/25GarageConversions-WallTreatments/ in which option D lists damp proofing then dot-and-dab but fails to mention what is suitable damp proofing hence Q1 above.
Thanks in advance.
Ant
I'm having an extension built at the moment, and part of the works involves moving the oil boiler into a single skinned block outhouse that is adjacent to the house.
Building control aren't interested in the boiler cupboard (for want of a better term) as there isn't going to be a rad in there and the door connecting it to the house will be external grade e.g. have required thermal properties - but I'm planning on dry lining it to make it a bit more presentable (currently raw blockwork).
From reading this forum I think I need to dampproof the walls and then hang some foil backed plasterboard which leads me to the following questions:
1) Damp proofing - the shed/boiler cupboard has a hefty slab of concrete for a floor which the builder is reluctant to dig out as the room is not subject to building regs. He is going to apply bitumen to the floor then some self-leveling compound to bring the floor to required height (the slab is less than 25mm lower than the floor level) - Can I apply the same bitumen to the walls to damp proof them?
2) Hanging the plasterboard - should I dot-and-dab the plaster on to the bitumen layer or should I frame it with treated timber.
3) if hanging plasterboard on timber frame (probably better as I'm handier with a drill than I am a trowel
) Should the frame be built off the wall or attached direct to the wall? I ask this as the cupboard is only 4' by 6' and building a 3x2 frame set off the wall seems overkill!I found this site whist googling: http://www.worthing.gov.uk/Planning...anceNotes/25GarageConversions-WallTreatments/ in which option D lists damp proofing then dot-and-dab but fails to mention what is suitable damp proofing hence Q1 above.
Thanks in advance.
Ant
