Dry lining boxes and Laths....

[TheGayOwl]

Hi folks,

Does a deeper DLB exist that will happily 'lug' onto old lath and plaster walls that may be up to close to an inch thick?

The deeper 47mm DLB's say they will accomodate upto 15mm in plaster depth, which is about the same as normal DLB's.

It would be nicer (and much stronger) to have the lugs grabbing the laths as well, as oppose to having the lugs of the box between the lath and the plaster. Sometimes I manage to do this but it can be a real fight to do so.....

Any thoughts, products, tip, tricks welcome!

Thanking You.

 

[ColJack]

tube of "sticks like sh*t" and a block of wood with a metal back box..
glue the block to the other inside of the wall and screw the box to that.. sorted..

failing that, I thing that marshal tufflex ones are better for deeper walls ( I think it's marshal tufflex, they have white semicircular lugs that swing out rather than the yellow / green ones that clip out.. )

a 47mm deep box should have deeper lugs, and you could always try clipping them in upside down... ( the yellow / green type ones.. )

 

[TheGayOwl]

Thanks Col,

Have seen the boxes with semi circular lugs as you suggest so will check to see if it is Marshall Tufflex.

Never thought of using gripfill etc onto wood on other side of wall as you suggest, only problem I could see is the wood moving about when screwing the back box in place. Would need to leave addy to go off a fair bit?!?!

PS Good luck with your new job!

 

[sparkwright]

If possible, I tend to fix a metal box to an upright, having chisselled a notch in it first.

 

[ColJack]

I see a "dragons den" oportunity..

either...

dry lining boxes with reversible tabs so you can put them in deeper walls, or something to convert a metal box to dry lining...

 

[sparkwright]

I see a "dragons den" oportunity..

either...

dry lining boxes with reversible tabs so you can put them in deeper walls, or something to convert a metal box to dry lining...

Metal boxes with flanges to use on dry wall etc has already been done, over 30 years ago. MK did them I think.

I think a 'dry line' box for lath and plaster walls could do with some flanges at the top and bottom, since the laths run horizontally and have more strength than the bits you cut through vertically.

 

[TheGayOwl]

Col, the Dragons Den thought did cross my mind!!

Spark, the idea for lugs on the horizontal is a good un....will incorporate it in my patent application and naturally you can have a percentage!!

Notching a stud (not what Joan Collins used to do) is definately strong as houses but unfortunately cannot always be done for one reason or another...

I looked at the MT website and they do say up to 25mm depth so they would prob be a lot easier to wangle in place. I have used the semi circular types before, ages ago, and I now do seem to recall they would do the trick...

 

[ColJack]

you can get metal dry lining boxes now.. they are the fire resistant ones with the intumescent foam gaskets in them..

if your metal boxes have holes in the side then you could always screw sideways into a piece of 1x1 timber, or even the laths if it will hold..
bit of adhesive on to keep it in place and the screws for the faceplate will hold it while it sets..

i have a design in mind for double metal adapters, but it may not work for singles..

probably be cheaper to re-design the metal box in the first place..

you could always do the "screw timber onto the back of the wall from the front" trick if you have to make good anyway.. bit of filler for a few screwheads works wonders..

the lugs top and bottom thing is not practical since you may have the cable entries that way.. also the lugs for the face plate tighten the box into the wall..

 

[sparkwright]

the lugs top and bottom thing is not practical since you may have the cable entries that way.. also the lugs for the face plate tighten the box into the wall..

You would have lugs away from the cable enties. Cable entries don't take up the whole length of the box.

You would have lugs top and bottom that don't rely on the faceplate screws.