Dry Lining Conservatory wit Fermacell?

[Damian30]

Hi,

I am looking to dryline our conservatory using Fermacell (I can't plaster) fitted to timber studwork.

As I've never done this before, I would be very grateful of any advice that can be provided on installing the timber studwork or any experiences with Fermacell.

Some basic questions I have...so that I can board around the kitchen window frame which protudes into the conservatory by around 40mm, what would be the best size timber batons to use?

Would fixing batons about 600mm apart be acceptable?

Given the size of the batons needed, what size screws and at what centres would I need to fix the batons. Would it be better to fix the screws into the actual brickwork for strength, rather than the mortar?

Any views on what type and width of Fermacell board would also be appreciated.

Sorry for the very basic nature of the above but any help would be great.

Many thanks,

Damian[/list]

 

[andymarshal]

hello mate, just to give you some ideas (i have never used fermacell) but have batonned out an entire house. The way i did it was by using roofing or slate lath which is an inch thick my advice would be:

Construct a frame from the lath, i made them 1200 wide with 4 battons screwed at 400 centres,it is important to make sure these are square afterwards. Make as many frames as you need and then make smaller ones to go on the end of the run. the reason i made frames as opposed to fixing individual battons on the wall is because frames are easier to level up and line through. although it depends if you want your wall level and lined through.

cut yourself some wedges or buy some. get yourself a good quality minimum 5 foot level.

place the first frame in the corner of the room and roughly level it up, you can then see where the packing is needed, if the bottom is ok then fix it. now add another frame which you can screw to the on you just screwed to the wall now chalk a straight line on the floor to work to.

Right now find yourself a nice long striaght bit of timber like a floor board put that upright where you did you first fixing put the level on top of that and fix the top, the reason you need this straight edge is beacused you want to make sure you dont bend the lath by fixing it ie causing it to bow.

now work your way down each upright fixing and packing behind.

Work your way along and hey presto you can get a perfect wall.

with regards to fixing - definately fix to the brick, sometimes mortar is very crumbly. use a minimum of 3 inch 10 screws unless the packing is bigger then use a 4 inch 10.

You preferably need min 2 drills one hammer drill with a 7mm bit and obviously a good quality drill with the right screw head (it may pay to hire one as those 3 inch tens take a lot of driving home). You can drill straight through the lath with the hammer drill i no its naughty but its easier

Another advantage of using a frame is you can get a screw into the floor boards if you need to.

As aguide on a 2400 ceiling height i would try to get at least 5 fixings per lath.

I hope this helps, let me know if you need anymore advice or you are welcome to come and see what i mean at my place in oldbury, i have just done one wall. if that is better for you

good luck

Andy

 

[NS215]

i'd say save yourself lots of mither and get it dry lined using plaster board by dabbing the board with board adhesive (use 6x4 boards more managable)and keep the boards off the floor an inch or so to stop any damp. And just keep checking for plumb with a spirit level
after that if your not confident skimmimg the plasterboard then pay a plasterer (should have it done in a day)

 

[jbonding]

i'd say save yourself lots of mither and get it dry lined using plaster board by dabbing the board with board adhesive (use 6x4 boards more managable)and keep the boards off the floor an inch or so to stop any damp. And just keep checking for plumb with a spirit level
after that if your not confident skimmimg the plasterboard then pay a plasterer (should have it done in a day)

your right, miles easier and quicker and cheaper

 

[andymarshal]

yes mate, that is the quickest easiest way, but he was asking about timber studwork in his original post.

Andy

 

[Damian30]

Hi,

Thanks for the replies so far...

Unfortunatley funds are a little short at the moment so I thought using Fermacell I may have been able to get an acceptable finish doing the work myself.

The alternative would perhaps be for me to apply an undercoat plaster directly to the exposed brick walls within the conservatory and then perhaps get a plasterer to apply a finishing plaster. I could use some batons to get a good level on the base plaster. The only problem I would have is that I wouldn't be able to box in the kitchen window (sill) which protudes into the conservatory - but it wouldn't be a big issue.

Does anyone have any views on this option or is dy-lining a better finish?

Thanks again,

Damian

 

[golfergti]

what type of timber would you use for a wooden frame like the one mention above