Easy fill on walls

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Hi, I'm painting a wall that was previously wallpapered over paint. As I've been taking the paper off, patches of the paint have come away down to the plaster. Whats the best way to get a good surface? The wall is very patchy, could I use easy fill on the patches, just sand it down or do something else?

Thanks.
 
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Painting over removed wallpaper requires you to wash the wall down thoroughly first if you are not papering with lining paper first.

Using lining paper will hide any imperfections also.

But if you are prepared to spend a long time washing down and do not want to paper or re-skim, and are prepared to settle for only an adequate finish, you could fill and sand as best as possible, touch paint the sunken areas with base coat emulsion, maybe a couple of times, then base coat the whole wall and if satisfied then put your top coat on. You will probably be able to see the areas where the paint peeled off when the light is in a certain direction still.
 
Thanks for that. I've never used lining paper before, are you able to see much of a join between sheets even when hung well? If so, is there a solution?
 
depends on your papering talent. if you haven't done it before you may leave visible joints.
 
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Hi, I'm painting a wall that was previously wallpapered over paint. As I've been taking the paper off, patches of the paint have come away down to the plaster. Whats the best way to get a good surface? The wall is very patchy, could I use easy fill on the patches, just sand it down or do something else?

Thanks.

When a wallcovering is removed and takes the existing painted surface with it it is normaly a sign that a mist coat was not applied thus leaving the existing painted surface unstable. You can after washing down the walls spot mist and face fill the areas of concern, then after sanding mist again and carry on with your finish coats. Yet seeing that the paintwork is as such unstable lining would perhaps be the better option, the most important thing to remember is that you should butt join the seams and on no account overlap them.

Dec
 
Yet seeing that the paintwork is as such unstable lining would perhaps be the better option,

This is definitely the better option.


the most important thing to remember is that you should butt join the seams and on no account overlap them.

Very true. The key here is to ensure you apply plenty of paste to the edges and use a seem roller to ensure the edges are in contact with the wall and no overlaps exist. I will often go over the joins many times to make sure of this.
 
Since you would be painting over the lining a paper a hair line joint can be acceptable as your paint will fill these. As thedec states though overlapping is not acceptable as you will always see the joint. I always butt and use seam roller on the joints.
 
Since you would be painting over the lining a paper a hair line joint can be acceptable as your paint will fill these.

You will find that if you butt your joints tight they will shrink back slightly anyway.

I think "harris" do a "contractors kit" for papering that includes a papering brush, seem rollor, knife and scissors. Perfect for this type of job if your on a budget,
 
Whilst it is permissable to leave a hairline gap thus allowing the paint to both flood and fill the joins, doing so can be risky so my advice would be to butt the seam.

Dec
 
You will find that if you butt your joints tight they will shrink back slightly anyway.

also depends on what grade paper used, drying conditions (temp and humidity, porousness of walls etc), thickness of paste and soaking times to how the paper will react. can be difficult for a first timer to gain a seamless finish. practice makes perfect or so they say. ;)
 
I think "harris" do a "contractors kit" for papering that includes a papering brush, seem rollor, knife and scissors. Perfect for this type of job if your on a budget,

i would advise against this. using decent quality papering tools makes a difference.

didn't see mention of budget in the op.
 
didn't see mention of budget in the op.

Neither did I, hence why I said

if your on a budget,

The op is free to use whatever he or she wants.

i would advise against this. using decent quality papering tools makes a difference.

The "bad workman always blames his tools" comes to mind here. Although there is a valid case for using superior tools "sometimes" I still feel I could do perfectly good papering job with the tools I recommended.

However, I myself do use better quality papering tools because I choose to.
 
There's nothing wrong with Harris gear. It's good DIY/semi pro stuff.
 
using quality equipment in painting and decorating is a must if you require a decent trade finish. If by calling me a "bad workman" means that i could not get a quality finish with some of the harris diy brands then so be it. As a decorator i choose to use quality brushes and tools for the finish they give. I tend to use a hamilton 7 ring hanging brush for wallpapering and would not dream of or advise anyone to use the pack you suggest. But there again i bow to your superior knowledge of this product.
 

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