Edit: Now replacing floorboards in bathroom floor

[Colindr]

Hi all -

I've discovered a leak at the point were the ceramic toilet waste pan connects to the waste pipe. I have to admit I have noticed it a little over the last week or two, but it was only drip-drip so I placed a bowl underneath the waste pipe. Tonight the situation appeared to deteriorate somewhat, because when I flushed the toilet more came out of the connector. I'm aiming to tackle this tomorrow, but how do you remove the connector from the pan, as it all seems such a tight fit.

The toilet itself is screwed to a wooden base, this over time as rotted a little and the screws have come loose, hence the toilet is not rock solid stable as it was before so it moves slightly when addressed. I think it's this movement which has caused the leak. So i'm at a loss if I also need to take the toilet off the slightly rotting wooden base and position in a new one? If I have to remove the toilet how will I know I can replace it in the best position it was before being removed?

Thanks for any assistance you can provide me, i'm not very DIY skilled but am willing to take guidance if you can help me

Cheers

 

[seco services]

If I have to remove the toilet how will I know I can replace it in the best position it was before being removed?

Mark round the base of the toilet/wood before removing.
Replace new wood base in your markings.

 

[Colindr]

If I have to remove the toilet how will I know I can replace it in the best position it was before being removed?

Mark round the base of the toilet/wood before removing.
Replace new wood base in your markings.

Thanks I will also need to find a replacement wood base that matches the shape of the bottom of the pan so it's a snug fit. It's about 1inch thick. Are there any ready made bases I can buy? Another elementary question I presume you have to remove as much water from the toilet pan as you can by pushing it through with a toilet brush?

 

[tim00]

As best you can, determine why the join is leaking.

OFF the water and flush the pan.

Is the pan connector a Multi-Quick type?
Is it a close couple or low level WC?
Is there ceramic tile on the floor?
Is the soil pipe plastic or CI?

Unscrew the pan from the floor (and the wall?)and gently pull it away ( water in the pan can be removed with a container and a sponge - no brushes.) Come back here if you cannot remove any screws.

Any damaged flooring can be replaced - be cautious as you cut the flooring, there may be concealed pipes or cables.

 

[Colindr]

As best you can, determine why the join is leaking.

OFF the water and flush the pan.

Is the pan connector a Multi-Quick type?
Is it a close couple or low level WC?
Is there ceramic tile on the floor?
Is the soil pipe plastic or CI?

Unscrew the pan from the floor (and the wall?)and gently pull it away ( water in the pan can be removed with a container and a sponge - no brushes.) Come back here if you cannot remove any screws.

Any damaged flooring can be replaced - be cautious as you cut the flooring, there may be concealed pipes or cables.

Hi thanks for your reply. Well you must be psychic because when I pulled the toilet pan away from the connector it fell through the floor a little - thankfully not all the way and I managed to pull it back up! You see the bathroom floor is raised a couple of feet above the main flooring and the floorboards underneath the toilet now need to be replaced. The leak must have rotted them I'm going to have to rip up the carpet (I know carpet bathroom bad, but I wanted to fix the leak before replacing this) and the undercover to get to the floorboards. I've taken the cistern and toilet away and placed in spare bedroom. PS this is the bedroom that is next to the bathroom and it has a cubbyhole door that you can see under the bathroom floor. Thankfully the leak hasn't affected this flooring space from what I can see. I've cleaned the soil pipe (wasn't as bad as id' thought it would be) and pushed a towel inside it to cut off the wind blasting through it. I've attached a chain to the original ball-float and inlet water pipe that went to the cistern so it stops the flow when I turn the mains water on. So I can still use fresh running water. I'm back at work tomorrow until weekend so I'm going to have to be clever in using their toilet facilities until I can get this sorted. Is replacing floorboards relatively easy or should I get some professionals in? I'd rather not go down the emergency call out route because that will cost me a bomb.

I'll attach some photos if this helps.

 

[tim00]

Yes, pics would help.

 

[Colindr]

Hi all - so I've taken up the carpet and peeled off some vinyl squares? off the top of the floorboards affected by the leak...

View media item 46361 View media item 46365
This is a picture taken underneath the raised flooring from the adjacent bedroom

View media item 46363
...and eventually the toilet which needs to be fitted onto the newly laid floorboards View media item 46364 -

I will also need to cut a 1inch thick wood base for the bottom of the toilet to be fitted to the floorboards. I went to B&Q but apparently they only cut in a straight line and nothing circular so I'm hoping to use a friends jigsaw to do this.

I think I'm going to have replace a good 2ft x 3ft of floorboards and the skirting boards too. What's the best material to use and I've heard that screwing the floorboards is better than nailing? Also should I replace the floorboards in the same way as they were laid i.e. exact shapes or should I go for longer boards that stretch across the whole bathroom if the beams below support it? Anyone know of a good step-by-step guide? Much appreciated in advance.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

That looks like someone has used sheets of chipboard for the flooring, when it gets wet it disintegrates as you've demostrated! I'd measure the sheet(s) and replace all damaged (and doubtful) sheets to be safe. Trying to replace the odd damaged section will be more aggro than its worth IMO.

Probably better to spend a bit extra and get something waterproof, (waterproof ply is available, not so sure about chipboard). You should be able to measure the thickness from a piece of the existing floor once taken up, get something the same thickness and if ncessary trim down to suit. Drill pilot holes and screw down. Once this is done offer pan to soil connection and flush pipe to position it. Once satisfied it is connected ok, use BRASS screws to fix pan to the new floor.

 

[tim00]

1. Your floor appears to be a mix of traditional floorboards, and chipboard. The flooring appears to run under the partition walls.

2. Why was the bathroom compartment raised 5" or 7"? Is it in an attic?
And why the strange carcassing/joisting below? Why is the below floor pipework exposed and mostly unclipped?

3. If your WC pan was raised on a 1" footprint plinth to catch the soil pipe connection, your safest bet would be to raise the whole floor by 1". But this would involve cutting the door, and adjusting the supplies to your WC & Ped Basin.

4. If you again use a 1" plinth/packing, you must screw the packing down before mounting the pan. The pan must be long screwed thro the packing and into the flooring. The cistern must be screwed to the wall.

5. To do a proper job, the whole floor should be cut out and replaced - this would involve removing the door and the ped basin, and all skirtings.

6. Or, cut across on the third vinyl tile line and remove the damage and see if it extends. A partial cut-out will require any new flooring to match remaining FFL level. Pre-determine what your final floor covering will be.

7. You will require a jig saw and a reciprocating saw - you can hire them.
It's a learning curve for a DIY'er. Take advantage to re-decorate.

8. See if the sinister white "fungus" extends into the walls or anywhere else.

 

[tim00]

AAMOI: perhaps this post should be posted in the Building Forum, or the Flooring Forum?

 

[Colindr]

Thanks Hugh and Tim for your replies - it has helped me decide what to do. I think replacing the whole floor will be far beyond my skillset because I would probably have to take out the sink basin and bath too? I haven't got a clue how to disconnect the taps from the top of the basin and think this might prove too tricky for me.
Thankfully from what I can see the floorboards haven't been damaged in these areas. It was behind the toilet and because I had a carpet down I didn't notice the leak until it was too late.

I have no idea why the floor was raised a couple of feet from the original level, it was like this when I moved in 6 years ago. The pipework underneath does look a bit loose in places, so I will aim to clip these back to the underside of the joists. At least I can see were they are before doing any drilling. I will go with the 1inch base/plinth to support the toilet as I think this will be easier for me than raising the flooring. I will take advantage of decorating too, but the main priority at the moment is to get the toilet working again. I'm doing a work/relatives/public toilet juggling act at the moment. No further details necessary. lol

I'll keep you posted how I get on, thanks again.

 

[Colindr]

Sorry me again -

I've measured the area that needs to be replaced - it's 3ft across (left-to-right) and 2ft 7" down (top-to-bottom) - Now I look at it, the original boards were actually placed down in squares. Would it be better to replace in strips across? Say 3 individual boards across and do you fit the boards so they fully go under the skirting board, because the previous boards left a small gap? The depth of the old boards is approx 22mm so I gather this is the standard size.

Last question, these are straight edged boards so should I stick with the same replacements or try tongue and groove boards? I've seen these for example http://www.wickes.co.uk/ptg-floorboards/invt/120830/?source=123_74

...any other tools I may need other than a power drill & cutting saw?

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

I'd personally use something like this: http://www.wickes.co.uk/tongued-and-grooved-chipboard-flooring/invt/164536/

Same thickness as you've already got. The T&G boards are 4mm thinner, doesnt sound a lot but you'll notice a dip in the floor. The chipboard is flooring grade, soon cut it to size. If it'll go under the skirting then fine, better if it does.

 

[Colindr]

I'd personally use something like this: http://www.wickes.co.uk/tongued-and-grooved-chipboard-flooring/invt/164536/

Same thickness as you've already got. The T&G boards are 4mm thinner, doesnt sound a lot but you'll notice a dip in the floor. The chipboard is flooring grade, soon cut it to size. If it'll go under the skirting then fine, better if it does.

Thanks - this will be strong enough to support the toilet? I just thought with the T&G boards I will still need one to be flat edged to fit next to the existing ones I don't need to replace and also flush against the wall? Can you buy T&G were one side is flat.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

It should be strong enough! Provided the joists are at the correct spacing i'd have every confidence in it. Also has moisture resistance so if people dont aim to please you hopefully shouldn't lose the pan through the floor again!

If you have a circular saw, run it down the edge to take an inch or so off to give you a flat edge to butt up to existing board. (Cut other end to suit obviously.)