Electric Cooker Installation Problem

[ovolactohippo]

I'm wondering whether anybody might be able to help me to work out where my problem is with my electric cooker installation.

I have just moved into a rented property with a brand new kitchen having been installed - no cooker though so had to supply my own. There is a new cooker control switch /plate (which may well be just a new face plate as I think the old one was in the same place) and a new cooker connection point coming from this (this is definitely in a new place, but must use the old wiring as it's red / black / earth).

I bought a second hand cooker and decided to hook it up myself using 6mm twin and earth cable, which I've tried to do today. After connecting up the cable and turning the cooker circuit / switch back on there seemed to be no power to the cooker (no display or anything). So i guessed it was probably either my wiring or the wiring to the cooker connection point. However, checking with a non contact voltage detector, there is voltage in the wire, voltage at the display panel, and voltage at the ceramic hobs *if* i turn them on (no signs of life from the cooker despite this).

Any ideas if this is indicative of where the fault lies? I obviously don't know how much power is getting to the cooker just from using the non contact tester. I know that the socket on the cooker control switch is working fine as I've plugged a kettle in there to try it out.

The back of the cooker connection I wasn't too sure about as it seems to me that it might be better off with crimped connectors. I don't know whether a poor connection on the wire would stop the cooker working whatsoever. I will see if i can upload a picture of the connections on the cooker

Any suggestions much appreciated - not sure whether i need to go back to the person i bought the cooker from or whether it's likely to be something else that's wrong!

 

[securespark]

You really need a DMM or similar to check continuity. Volt sticks have their place, but their value is limited.

I used to use them to check items (like rads, tanks, baths, appliance casings etc) were not live before making contact with them.

You may find there is an issue with neutral continuity or a problem with a switch or connection, possibly some trapped insulation under a screw?

Go through from where the supply comes in to the switch from the Consumer Unit and work through from there towards the appliance.

Take care to isolate if checking continuity (a dead test) and if you are still stuck, post some pictures.

We like pictures!

EDIT: Just seen the "rented" bit.

Best not to mess with the house wiring. Check the supply at the cooker.

If you do not have 230V between LN/ LE and 0V between N/E, then isolate the power and carefully recheck your connections to eliminate trapped insulation, then call the landlord.

 

[winston1]

If you do not have 230V between LN/ LE and 0V between N/E, then isolate the power and carefully recheck your connections to eliminate trapped insulation, then call the landlord.

Very unlikely. He might have 240V or more however. There is power at the cooker control unit. Barring wiring errors I would suspect the "second hand" cooker.

 

[EFLImpudence]

You mention 'no display'.
Obviously if there is absolutely nothing then something is wrong.

However, some ovens do not work until the clock is set.

 

[securespark]

Oh Winny, my dear fellow.

Stop it right now.

You know what I mean by "230V".

Please do not bleat on about Europe and 230V and how although there has been changes we have 240V here in the UK and nothing has essentially altered etc etc.... Yawn......

Are you going to go around advising folk that if they do not find between 216 - 253V, then there is a problem?

"He" may well be a "she" and whichever, I'm sure OLH knows what they are looking for voltage-wise.

 

[ovolactohippo]

Thanks for your helpful replies! I am a he by the way

The fact that I'm renting does indeed mean I'm pretty limited in what I can / will do in testing the circuit. The connection point having been moved means that the wiring there isn't necessarily known to be good, and my second hand cooker ditto! I'm hoping it's not the cooker - it's immaculate and pretty new, and the people who sold it to me seem genuine.

The voltage pen was left here by someone when I moved in, I happened to use it to check whether any power was getting to the cooker as I was not 100% on a safe method of testing the circuit or whether I'd have the equipment to do so. I did not expect the pen to give me anything particularly useful, although I found it interesting that there was voltage at the ceramic hobs when they are turned on. The only testing equipment I have here is a simple multimeter.

Quick note on my competence - I haven't done much work on household electrics other than changing light fittings etc. so I'm quite cautious in relation to the potential dangers of working with these kinds of circuits (I'm more of a consumer electronics / computers man!), although I would say I'm pretty competent. I tend to research things thoroughly before starting. Is there a relatively safe method of checking the cooker connection point / voltage to the cooker using a simple multimeter? I understand the checking LE / LN / NE above and know that I could technically do that with the 500V setting on my multimeter, but is it safe / recommended on a circuit that has the potential to draw 32amps before tripping?

 

[AndyPRK]

The last time a problem was posted like this the cooker wire hadn't been connected behind the switch.
I assume to prevent any exposed live wires.
As its a new kitchen it could be possible in this case.

 

[EFLImpudence]

You know there is power to the cooker switch because the socket works.
These are the same connections that supply the switch.

So, with the power OFF you can check, with your multimeter, the continuity of all the wires.
That is, with the switch on and power OFF, one probe on the live supply to the switch and the other probe to the live connector at the cooker.
Then the same with the Neutral and Earth.

If there is continuity in all the wires then there must be power, when on, to the cooker - can't not be.
If not then either the switch doesn't work - check continuity between the terminals - or there is a break in one of the wires somewhere.

 

[ovolactohippo]

Well well, the simple answer proves the right one! Checked the cooker switch - one neutral disconnected there (two sets of cable coming in so one for the socket and one for the cooker I presume?). Connected that up and we're in business!

Thanks for all your help. Very much appreciated!