N
namsag
Usual cause for blowing with nothing selected is a leak around the motorised valve , drippng into it or from the spindle its self check around them
Electrical Problem?
- Thread starter foxhole
- Start date
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Foxhole, my post was a general post based on what I find on installations during repairs, servicing and breakdown calls. It is very common to find a 13 amp fuse fitted to a system that needs no more than 2 amp fuse. 3 amp is normally fitted as 2 amp is not a stock item in many stores. 5 amp (as far as I am concerned is a last resort). 13 amp is fitted by both installers and householders who are looking for power but brain is not in gear. What were you hoping to achieve by repeated replacements of fuse- did you think the fault would have gone away?
The amount/ size of flash would suggest the track has blown as it carried current it was not designed to do. You will note display is active so timing element is not affected.
Rest assured programmer is not to blame.
If wiring was defective, unless altered and then fuse blowing started, fail to see how the system would have operated since it was installed.
If the valve opens and pump runs, I would say the two thermostats are in order as is the motorised valve. Orange on the MV is running the pump and should fire the boiler too
You say the boiler is live with no demand from the timer but have you checked the pump? Is it running when no demand from timer?
Suggest you remove the pump and boiler wires and test live and neutral conductors to earth for insulation and look for short or partial s/c across l and N
With timer off, HW and CH demand conductors from it will be at 0 volts. Also ensure orange wire with pump and boiler leads removed, is at 0 potential.
Take a chill pill. You are getting some solid advice by people who do this kind of work every day. Being sassy will get you nowhere. All that will do is pi55 people off and you are then at mercy of dabblers who think they are boiler kings.
The amount/ size of flash would suggest the track has blown as it carried current it was not designed to do. You will note display is active so timing element is not affected.
Rest assured programmer is not to blame.
If wiring was defective, unless altered and then fuse blowing started, fail to see how the system would have operated since it was installed.
If the valve opens and pump runs, I would say the two thermostats are in order as is the motorised valve. Orange on the MV is running the pump and should fire the boiler too
You say the boiler is live with no demand from the timer but have you checked the pump? Is it running when no demand from timer?
Suggest you remove the pump and boiler wires and test live and neutral conductors to earth for insulation and look for short or partial s/c across l and N
With timer off, HW and CH demand conductors from it will be at 0 volts. Also ensure orange wire with pump and boiler leads removed, is at 0 potential.
Take a chill pill. You are getting some solid advice by people who do this kind of work every day. Being sassy will get you nowhere. All that will do is pi55 people off and you are then at mercy of dabblers who think they are boiler kings.
The most common cause of overheat faults is a faulty pump. They can run for a while and then overload intermittently.
To prevent any further damage, I suggest you power the pump from an external lead with a 3 A fuse. Leave it running for a period to confirm/eliminate it from the equation.
We dont seem to know exactly which model of boiler you have. If its an old one then the boiler and pump would be powered together when there is any demand for heat.
Tony
To prevent any further damage, I suggest you power the pump from an external lead with a 3 A fuse. Leave it running for a period to confirm/eliminate it from the equation.
We dont seem to know exactly which model of boiler you have. If its an old one then the boiler and pump would be powered together when there is any demand for heat.
Tony
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