Electronic timer for heated towel rail PLEASE HELP

[Pexlex]

I have put in a heated towel rail, it's wired in 2.5mm / 1.5mm twin and earth. The mains supply comes into an electronic timer and out to the towel rail. whichever way i connect it it either doesn't get warm or stays on all the time?? The timer is for an immersion heater with 70+ programmes.

Connections are:

Live Live from mains supply and there is a link cable to COM
Neutral Neutral from mains supply and Neutral out
COM Linked cable from LIVE IN
NO Live out
NC unused

Can anyone help??

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It may be an obvious thing but you have programmed it?

 

[GaryMo]

Either that or it's faulty.....

Live out to NO - no heat output
Live out to NC - permanent heat output

That's what would happen if the internal relay wasn't operating through fault or incorrect programming.
Is there a manual overide switch? If so, can you hear a click from inside when you change its state?

 

[Pexlex]

Either that or it's faulty.....

Live out to NO - no heat output
Live out to NC - permanent heat output

That's what would happen if the internal relay wasn't operating through fault or incorrect programming.
Is there a manual overide switch? If so, can you hear a click from inside when you change its state?

There is a manual override, but it does nothing, it remains on all the time as it's currently wired. I thought NO was Normally Open (live when timer activates) and NC was Normally closed (Not used) ??????

It does click in, but doesn't change the on/off of the towel rail??

 

[GaryMo]

I thought NO was Normally Open (live when timer activates) and NC was Normally closed (Not used) ??????

That's exactly what they are. They should change state when the programmer switches on and off. If they're not doing that then I would return the programmer for another.

Normally open goes closed - heat is called for.
Normally closed (if used) goes open.

 

[-Sean-]

What's the current rating for the timer? Some central heating programmers for example are only rated at a couple of amps as the switching of the high current stuff is done by the mid-position valve. Could be the contacts in the timer have been fused together if its rating has been exceeded?

 

[breezer]

What's the current rating for the timer? Some central heating programmers for example are only rated at a couple of amps

its NOT a central heating timer

The timer is for an immersion heater

My money is on the on / auto / off switch being in the off position