Energy Saver Bulb flickers when swiched off?

[rossw]

Hiya, I've replaced every bulb in the house with Philips 60 Watt Energy Saver Bulbs (11 Watt Energy)

I have noticed intermittently there is a flicker from the bulb when switched off, this can go on for 5-10 minuets after?

I have a 1930's House but it had a modern circuit board, it happens in the bedrooms (sometimes) on a single switch and mainly on the landing light which is a double switch?

Do I have a faulty bulb, leak of electricity or something more poltergeisty?

p.s Could this be a fire risk because I never noticed this with normal bulbs??

 

[pbar]

This happens in some instances with low energy bulbs, I think it's to do with the way the light fitting is wired/connected. Some of the pro guys on here will be able to tell you exactly why.
I just have the one which flickers every few seconds, ever so slightly, permanently. I think that is because the switch which operates that light has a constant neon on it, as it's one of those outside weatherproof switches with a neon location indicator.

 

[Dan1983]

i had this problem all i did was swap my switched live an neutral over in the pendant, they where both black.

Just be carefull if there is more than one cable as this may have neutrals in an out aswell as carrying the live to the next fiiting
you dont want to put your live in with your neutrals.

 

[JohnD]

It happens when there is capacitive coupling which builds up where two wires lie close together. This happens most often with 2-way switching because you have a live cable running quite a long way between the switches, and voltage "leaks" from the live wire to the switch, into the "dead" wire, in the same cable, that goes to the lamp.

because of the electronic circuitry in the energy-saving lamp, it can store it up until it has enough for a momentary flicker

this not caused by faulty insulation, it is to do with the faint mangnetism which is caused when electricity flows through a wire.

some brands of lamps are less prone to it, you could try a Philips in the landing light if that is the worst one. Or, if it a circuit with several light fittings, if you put a low-wattage filament bulb in one of them, it drains away the tiny current and prevents flickering. Otherwise it is no big deal.

there are other more complicated ways of dealing with it, too

it is also worse if you have no effective earthwire in the cable (this helps to drain away the tiny current). This should not be the case in a circuit laid since about 1970, unless there is a fault.

 

[pbar]

It happens when there is capacitive coupling which builds up where two wires lie close together. This happens most often with 2-way switching because you have a live cable running quite a long way between the switches, and voltage "leaks" from the live wire to the switch, into the "dead" wire, in the same cable, that goes to the lamp.

because of the electronic circuitry in the energy-saving lamp, it can store it up until it has enough for a momentary flicker

this not caused by faulty insulation, it is to do with the faint mangnetism which is caused when electricity flows through a wire.

some brands of lamps are less prone to it, you could try a Philips in the landing light if that is the worst one. Or, if it a circuit with several light fittings, if you put a low-wattage filament bulb in one of them, it drains away the tiny current and prevents flickering. Otherwise it is no big deal.

there are other more complicated ways of dealing with it, too

it is also worse if you have no effective earthwire in the cable (this helps to drain away the tiny current). This should not be the case in a circuit laid since about 1970, unless there is a fault.

That's an excellent detailed explanation, thanks.
It only happens on one of my bulbs, at the front of the garage, and that happens to be a two way switch. I thought it was something to do with the neon indicator that the outside switch had.

 

[Taylortwocities]

[
That's an excellent detailed explanation, thanks.
It only happens on one of my bulbs, at the front of the garage, and that happens to be a two way switch. I thought it was something to do with the neon indicator that the outside switch had.

You'll probably find that there is no earth wire in the garage 2-way switch wiring or its not connected, A properly earthed cpc usually fixes the problem.

Per DAN!983's suggestion

had this problem all i did was swap my switched live an neutral over in the pendant, they where both black.

Dont do that. The wires are in their proper places. Leave them where they are.

 

[blondini]

i had this problem all i did was swap my switched live an neutral over in the pendant, they where both black.

If you have ES (screw cap) fittings, the live has to go to the centre contact. Not safe otherwise.
With bayonet fittings just put the bulb in the other way round...

 

[JohnD]

With bayonet fittings just put the bulb in the other way round...

didn't know that. does it really work?

 

[Taylortwocities]

The two black wires connect to the wires that go to the lamp.
These wires are coloured brown and blue for a reason.

Don't see how turning the lamp round could make any difference, how can it, its AC.

 

[Dan1983]

What i ment was that when originally connected who is to say that it was connected right, does the switch wire go to L? or N?

It does matter on Energy saving lamps for some reason, and after switching them round on mine it worked fine

 

[annield]

Hi, what JohnD speaks of is induction
That is one of the reasons why you can walk along below a EHV power line with a flourescent tube in your hand and it will light up
I think I know because I am an ex CEGB electrical engineer, anything 275kV and above and I'm happy

 

[FDJ]

Hi, what JohnD speaks of is induction
That is one of the reasons why you can walk along below a EHV power line with a flourescent tube in your hand and it will light up
I think I know because I am an ex CEGB electrical engineer, anything 275kV and above and I'm happy

That's due to the voltage gradient between the line and earth.
The OP's flickering is more likely caused by Capacitive coupling rather than Inductive.

Frank

 

[JohnD]

I used to think it was induction too, but the lads tell me it's not

 

[blondini]

With bayonet fittings just put the bulb in the other way round...

didn't know that. does it really work?

I don't know, never tried it