Energy saving by reducing water temperature

Joined
6 Nov 2004
Messages
108
Reaction score
2
Location
Nottingham
Country
United Kingdom
May be this would be better suited to the gas and heating forum but I thought I'd stick it here instead. Can someone explain how turning down the circulation water temperature on my system will save me money. My room stat will call for heat until it's set temperature is reached. Reducing the water temperature in the radiators will mean the heating will be on for longer so no net saving. Am I missing something here. Are the laws of thermodynamics different for some systems?
 
Sponsored Links
May be this would be better suited to the gas and heating forum but I thought I'd stick it here instead. Can someone explain how turning down the circulation water temperature on my system will save me money. My room stat will call for heat until it's set temperature is reached. Reducing the water temperature in the radiators will mean the heating will be on for longer so no net saving. Am I missing something here. Are the laws of thermodynamics different for some systems?

The cooler the return temperature, to a condensing boiler, the more efficiently it can operate, other than that - no benefit.
 
May be this would be better suited to the gas and heating forum but I thought I'd stick it here instead. Can someone explain how turning down the circulation water temperature on my system will save me money. My room stat will call for heat until it's set temperature is reached. Reducing the water temperature in the radiators will mean the heating will be on for longer so no net saving. Am I missing something here. Are the laws of thermodynamics different for some systems?
You only want to replace lost heat. Any extra heat is surplus = wasted money.
Also, boiler cycling is problematic because it will turn off at your desired temp when it should really be maintaining that temp. This makes for a more uncomfortable environment but it will also take extra energy to re-heat the walls and build up the thermal mass. This issue is resolved with thermostats that support opentherm, or better yet, weather compensation which is the gold standard imo.
Then there is the issue of thermal expansion/contraction due to cycling which will lead to boiler problems down the line.
 
Sponsored Links
Maybe it works better with a newer system. Mine is 30 odd years old and has been extremely reliable if a little poor regarding efficiency.
 
Maybe it works better with a newer system. Mine is 30 odd years old and has been extremely reliable if a little poor regarding efficiency.

In that case, you shouldn't run the boiler at low temperature. Doing so can cause the flue gases to condense, and because they are acidic, they can corrode your heat exchanger. On newer boilers, the heat exchangers are made from metals which are resistant to the acidic condensate.
 
its a case of finding a happy medium by turning down the boiler stat and seeing if or how much longer it takes for the house to get up to temp to turn room stat and trvs off too low and house will never reach temp or be on for hours longer in total
 
its a case of finding a happy medium by turning down the boiler stat and seeing if or how much longer it takes for the house to get up to temp to turn room stat and trvs off too low and house will never reach temp or be on for hours longer in total

Place your thermostat in the room you live in, let the rest of the house stay colder.
 
Place your thermostat in the room you live in, let the rest of the house stay colder.
if only that didnt cost a penny and in majority of cases the people didnt have to get someone in to alter the wiring etc .
i found it far cheaper just putting the couch and telle in the hall
 
if only that didnt cost a penny and in majority of cases the people didnt have to get someone in to alter the wiring etc .
i found it far cheaper just putting the couch and telle in the hall
Yes sorry never gave that a thought, mine is wireless.

IMG_1076.JPG
 
May be this would be better suited to the gas and heating forum but I thought I'd stick it here instead. Can someone explain how turning down the circulation water temperature on my system will save me money. My room stat will call for heat until it's set temperature is reached. Reducing the water temperature in the radiators will mean the heating will be on for longer so no net saving. Am I missing something here. Are the laws of thermodynamics different for some systems?
Think of it as driving a car. You can stick your foot down and get there quicker or you can be as light as a feather on the pedal and build up speed gradually. You’ll still cover the same distance but the second method will use a lot less fuel. That’s how I think of it anyway! I have my 18Kw boiler set down to 14kw, the water temperature to 62° and the central heating pump on the slowest speed. It works for me.
 
How much benefit, depends on a lot of things. You won't get solid figures - look at boiler manufactuers' claims, they vary a lot.
Does your boiler heat your hot water too? Storage or combi? Do those have a separate boiler temperatures? cf Legionella.
If you have older specced rad sizes designed for 82º flow temp at a specified out side temp, your house may never get up to the temperature you want, when the weather's cold.

Try shutting your internal doors, reducing the air currents makes you feel warmer!
Don't have a cold room though - condensation. MIL did that and the wallpaper fell off.:ROFLMAO:
 
Exactly as Mottie says. You can drive a car with your foot to the floor until you get to 70 mph, and every time the speed drops by 5 mph you can floor it again until you hit 70, rinse and repeat. Or you can accelerate gently until you hit 70 and then tickle the accelerator to maintain 70.

which style uses less fuel? Your boiler is the same. Slow and steady uses a lot less fuel.
 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top