Engineered Wood Floor : Floating underlay or stick down??

[vonny232]

Hi,

This is my first post here.

I want to install an engineered wood floor in the living room of my new house (under construction). It has a concrete screed with existing DPC,
the house is new, and has exellent drainage so rising damp is unlikely.

The flooring will be Engineered Oak, 3 strip with square edges, it will use the "click" system.

I like the idea of glueing the floor instead of floating it, but I know its more tricky.
Some floating installations feel a bit spongey to walk on, and gaps sometimes appear between planks (this is especially niticable when using 3-strip flooring)

Can anyone advise me of the advantages/disadvantages of each method and your own reccomendation.

Also, Although the planks use the "click" system. Can I still glue the planks to prevent gaps appearing over time??

thanks

Danny

 

[crazydaze]

Your unlikely to be able to get the click joints 'tight' by using glue as well as the click system, so I would recommend keeping the click system as is, it also makes a right mess and add's time to the job, you may have issues with peaking joints as the moisture from the glue sweels the joints - usually temporarily.

Correctly fitted you should not have issues with gaps appearing in an engineered floor.

Use a good underlay system, something like Timbermate XL or nice quality composition board underlay and you should'nt have an issue with bounce so long as the subfloor is reasonably level. You will be able to fit the floor 'floating' staight away, and use the room immedietley.

If you are considering glueing direct to the subfloor, you will need to check the moisture content of the subfloor with a hydrometer, assuming the floor has dried out enough, screed the subfloor level, then install the floor as per the manufacturers instructions (assuming it is suitable for stick down) You will of course have to wait for everything to dry and settle before putting furniture in and using the room/rooms.

 

[vonny232]

Thanks for the reply.

I guess i liked the idea of glueing down more than floating because its a more solid and sturdy finish.

The screed is from self levelling concrete, its pretty smooth and flat. I think the floor is dry because it already has a DPC built in. I will test this using a moisture testing kit.

Any major disadvantages from glueing? What would the reccomendation be?

 

[crazydaze]

Thanks for the reply.

I guess i liked the idea of glueing down more than floating because its a more solid and sturdy finish.

The screed is from self levelling concrete, its pretty smooth and flat. I think the floor is dry because it already has a DPC built in. I will test this using a moisture testing kit.

Any major disadvantages from glueing? What would the reccomendation be?

The floor needs to be perfectly prepared, a self levelling concrete is not smooth or level enough, you'll need a proper smooth levelling screed preperation.

Moisture testing, you'll ideally need a hydrometer, the hand held moisture testers will not give an accurate enough reading of the concrete above the DPM.

Glueing will ultimately mean the floor is directly bonded to the subfloor thus minimising rocking movement and drum sound through foot movement, it will make no visual difference to the installation, if the subfloor is 'level' than floating will leave you with a very stable floor under foot.

Floating the floor would be quicker, cheaper, there would be less upheaval, you can use the floor more quickly after install, you can fit on a more varied time frame.

So I would guess that the overall finish is very important, but a hydrometer test on the floor may swing your decision, especially if there is moisture in the floor that may complicate install/moving in dates. Your flooring or flooring supplier should have the details required for acceptable moisture content and floor preperation if this particular engineered product is suitable for stick install. As for screed etc, worth looking at the products available from Ardex http://www.ardex.co.uk/ They have a good question and answer technical section on their website too.

 

[vonny232]

Thanks for the info.

I think I may float the floor instead (at least initially).

I have too many other things associated with the build of this house to be complicating things any further...

 

[mointainwalker]

Depending on your floor area, you may find glue-cost daunting or even astonishing.

In England pnds 5-7 per m2 or more just for the cost of the ( most-recommended )glue-types.

 

[vonny232]

Yeah, the glue is expensive.

I was looking at that F Ball B92 adhesive because it was cheaper than that mapei adhesive which was just rediculous.


The house I rent at the moment has 3-strip engineered wood floor in the living room, its a few years old now.

The gap between each 3-strip plank is noticable (I gather its just due to wear and dirt), but there is no gap between each strip on the plank itself (obviously). I was thinking a glue down installation would prevent gaps appearing between each plank.

I want the floor to be smooth and crisp with no gaps between the planks. Thats my most important aim.

 

[crazydaze]

How do you clean your existing floor?

 

[vonny232]

we sweep it, then use one of theose microfibre mops (well wrung out)

 

[crazydaze]

It's hard to say then why the edges are discolouring, I often find it to be more associated with excessive water being used to clean wood and laminate floors although some ranges will discolour if the joints are not engineered quite to the highest tolerances.

Either way, a glue system will not necersarily guarantee the edges will not discolour. I find that if the floor is laquered then it's best to use a spray cleaner and microfibre mop head as this tends to lift dirt more efficiently than a damp mop head, it dries quicker with less 'smearing' to and this helps keep moisture on joint areas to a minimum.