Extending 2.5mm twin and earth, correctly
- Thread starter markwm
- Start date
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First things first.....
Is the the you are doing taking away an accessory?
Does that make sence? Umm.......
Once you have done the join, and it has been plastered over, will the cable be in a 'safe' zone, or 50mm or more below the surface?
A safe zone is:-
- Horizontally or vertically from an accessory, the zone being the width/height of the accessory. This zone extends to the other side of a wall if the wall is 100mm thick or less.
- Within 150mm or the corner of a wall, or where the wall joins the ceiling (still a dirty practice if you conceil wiring here!).
The only other option for T+E would be if it was in earthed steel conduit or trunking, or protected against penetration by nails and the like. (Steel capping from a DIY store or merchant WOULD NOT be adequate).
If your cable does not run true to above, you need to make sure you leave an accessory on the wall (A socket, switch, blank plate even).
Is the the you are doing taking away an accessory?
Does that make sence? Umm.......
Once you have done the join, and it has been plastered over, will the cable be in a 'safe' zone, or 50mm or more below the surface?
A safe zone is:-
- Horizontally or vertically from an accessory, the zone being the width/height of the accessory. This zone extends to the other side of a wall if the wall is 100mm thick or less.
- Within 150mm or the corner of a wall, or where the wall joins the ceiling (still a dirty practice if you conceil wiring here!).
The only other option for T+E would be if it was in earthed steel conduit or trunking, or protected against penetration by nails and the like. (Steel capping from a DIY store or merchant WOULD NOT be adequate).
If your cable does not run true to above, you need to make sure you leave an accessory on the wall (A socket, switch, blank plate even).
As Lectrician states above...
and regarding an actual joint....
If forever, really means forever then ideally there shouldn't be a joint at all. However if it has to be there then it needs to be crimped accordingly using the appropriate sizes lugs, then taped up, and preferably put into and enclosure to protect the connections. The crimp joints need to be double checked to ensure they are made correctly.
The common used method of connector block and insulations tape can only be used if the connection is easily accessible, but the connection should be ideally enclosed to provide mechanical protection for the connections.
and regarding an actual joint....
If forever, really means forever then ideally there shouldn't be a joint at all. However if it has to be there then it needs to be crimped accordingly using the appropriate sizes lugs, then taped up, and preferably put into and enclosure to protect the connections. The crimp joints need to be double checked to ensure they are made correctly.
The common used method of connector block and insulations tape can only be used if the connection is easily accessible, but the connection should be ideally enclosed to provide mechanical protection for the connections.
It's in a safe zone. Basically someone has instead a single socket about 7 foot up the wall. I need to move it directly downwards to a normal level but there's not enough cable to pull down.
I've never done a crimped joint before, I could use a blank plate though as it's only in a pantry area so the blank plate won't look that odd.
I've never done a crimped joint before, I could use a blank plate though as it's only in a pantry area so the blank plate won't look that odd.
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can any one tell me where in the regs it says you can use crimps?
526.3 (iv)
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