Extending the ring main (and a few other bits)

mo2

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Hi,

First of all, I have performed continuty tests to confirm that the sockets are on a ring and not radial. From a socket I want to run horizontally two 2.5mm t&e cables to extend the ring. Is it Ok to use choc blocks inside the back box to join one of these cables to one of the supply cables

NOW:
supply - socket - supply
HOPEFULLY:
supply - choc block - new stuff(socket - socket - socket - dp fcu) - socket - supply

the new stuff would be a few sockets and a double pole FCU

since the cables so far are in safe zones, what means of protection do they need, as far as I understand capping will be fine - am I right?

Here is where I'm a little unsure. I want to mount a plasma on the wall, buut this idea may have to be scrapped for a stand if I have to.

There is only 3cm between the painted surface and the breeze block behind. i don't want to actually put in the hdmi cables and whatever else I may need because I haven't got all my gear. I also want to avoid taking the connectors off the end of cables like scart so they can be pulled through. I am a bit lost at what to do here. also would it be OK to run firetuf(no interference) cable from the fcu to an aerial socket with the socket taken out termintad in a chocblock, connect the erth of this choc block to the backbox and then cut off the plug from the tv cable and connect it there

Finally the floor isn't in so could I run the speaker cables in this
and also an aerial cable from the socket at the other end of the room


thanks for reading
look forward to your replies
 
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Why do you want to extend the ring? What is it you want to do with these new sockets?
 
well the current socket is not in a convienient place for my av equipment
 
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If you are installing just for the home cinema kit, would a 13Amp fused spur do? I don't like the idea of a choc block as I like to keep joins to a minimum so, if a spur wouldn't do it, I'd try to join into the ring main horizontally, between electrically adjacent sockets in the ring.

In the 'safe zones' you describe you don't actually need anything protecting the cable, though I always cap cables, myself.

Are you suggesting using the firetuf in lieu of co-ax type cables?
 
didthathurt said:
If you are installing just for the home cinema kit, would a 13Amp fused spur do? I don't like the idea of a choc block as I like to keep joins to a minimum so, if a spur wouldn't do it, I'd try to join into the ring main horizontally, between electrically adjacent sockets in the ring.

In the 'safe zones' you describe you don't actually need anything protecting the cable, though I always cap cables, myself.

Are you suggesting using the firetuf in lieu of co-ax type cables?

well, i want a few sockets plus the fcu so I dont have to use those thingies with extra plugs on

and yes the firetuf would run along the other cables going to the plasma
 
didthathurt said:
If you are installing just for the home cinema kit, would a 13Amp fused spur do? I don't like the idea of a choc block as I like to keep joins to a minimum so, if a spur wouldn't do it, I'd try to join into the ring main horizontally, between electrically adjacent sockets in the ring.

In the 'safe zones' you describe you don't actually need anything protecting the cable, though I always cap cables, myself.

Are you suggesting using the firetuf in lieu of co-ax type cables?

edit- the red text you mean cut the cable and connect to sockets or something because in the socket the two cables go straight up and do not run between the sockets

well, i want a few sockets plus the fcu so I dont have to use those thingies with extra plugs on

and yes the firetuf would run along the other cables going to the plasma
 
What I mean is I'd remove the vertical cable joining 2 adjacent sockets and replace this with a new connection between the two running horizontally and connect the extra sockets etc into this. If I only needed a couple of extra bits I'd run a couple of spurs from existing sockets to create the extra capacity. As for this use of the Firetuf, it's outside of my experience/knowledge so I can't comment.
 
what's wrong with simply choc blocking - do they burn out or something(it's not against the regs is it?)

also any opinions on the speaker cabling?
 
Where you join cable, the joint needs to be over insulated, so with choc blocks you can use choc boxes - and with crimps you can use heat shrink - but these won't fit into the back box (unless you've got a 47mm box for some reason!). If the joint is via a screwed connection it must be accessible - so self amalgamating tape is probably out. This does constrain how you do this from a practical point.

The speaker cable runs are dealers choice really. I have found the trunking you linked to very good at being easier to make unobtrusive than some others.
 
didthathurt said:
Where you join cable, the joint needs to be over insulated, so with choc blocks you can use choc boxes - and with crimps you can use heat shrink - but these won't fit into the back box (unless you've got a 47mm box for some reason!). If the joint is via a screwed connection it must be accessible - so self amalgamating tape is probably out. This does constrain how you do this from a practical point.

The speaker cable runs are dealers choice really. I have found the trunking you linked to very good at being easier to make unobtrusive than some others.

so if I crimp it in the backbox, it's ok?

Edit - Also then how do I connect the firetuf to the flex, perhaps simply a socket in the correct position would be better
 

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