Extension flex wired into a switched double outlet?

[piper64]

As part of a refurb of the kitchen, I intended to have a fused spur running behind the units so I could fit a double socket onto the end of it for powering the dishwasher and the ignitor for the gas hob. It was intended that the switched socket would be mounted inside a base unit, so it was easily accessible.

Wiring done, plastering done. Forgot to run the spur behind the units.

Now, 10 feet away behind the fridge freezer I have a double socket, so I could run a 2 way extension cord but I would like to be able to switch the dishwasher off without switching the ignitor off, should I wish.

Is it OK to mount a switched double outlet inside a unit as proposed, then run a length of standard extension flex to the existing wall socket? Should I use 2.5 T+E instead or would that not fit into the plug?

 

[Astra99]

There is nothing to prevent you installing a 2-way trailing socket (or even a 6-way!) inside a kitchen cupboard and connecting this, using 1.5mm 3-core flex and a standard 13A plug, to an existing socket.

The flex must not be buried in the wall and should be supported to prevent pulling and chafing.

Note that the socket you use must have a cord grip - if you intend to use a "standard" double socket, buy a 35mm plastic backbox and use a 20mm cable gland to act as a cord grip.

 

[piper64]

Ok, thanks. I was wondering how I would secure the flex if I wanted to use a standard outlet, so I'll get a cable gland.

I presume I locate it in one of the knock outs or inside the box acting as a means of preventing the cable pulling through rather than securing the cable in place?

Ive folded over the strands and soldered them to make a better fit in the socket terminals, as using stranded wire in a socket designed for a solid core cable seemed odd like the screw would mash the strands.

 

[slup]

It's not really good practice to tin wires which are going into screw terminals.

The solder will eventually 'creep' and cause the joint to lose tension.

 

[piper64]

I soldered them as I noticed that most of the fitted plugs I've seen have the ends soldered already.

I can easily cut the soldered end off and just twist the strands, double it over and then put into the terminals.

 

[Astra99]

Hi

What you have seen are flexes with (uninsulated) bootlace ferrules crimped on the exposed conductors. These ferrules are readily available; I use them when making up extension leads etc., but for a one-off the cost would not be worth it. Just double over the flex and screw down tight, but not so tight that the screw cuts into the cable!

The cable gland requires a 20mm hole in the mounting backplate, that is why I suggested a plastic box. The "normal" back boxes would be a s*d to drill a 20mm hole in! Alternatively, if you buy a 2-gang metalclad socket and backbox, the knockouts are 20mm.

 

[piper64]

I used a plasterboard box and the central knock out fitted the gland well. All tidier looking than an extension lead.
thanks.

 

[dhutch]

Note that the socket you use must have a cord grip - if you intend to use a "standard" double socket, buy a 35mm plastic backbox and use a 20mm cable gland to act as a cord grip.

You can get plastic back boxes with cord grips at the back of them.

I also agree that tinned ends are not ideal, but have seen them used commercially. Bootlace ferrules are best, imo, if crimped correctly, but equally twisted neatly together and left naked should also be fine.


Daniel