It was built 1950 and a 3 story house.
Found a price list on net this gives me a rough idea what im going to be paying out.
http://www.buildingsheriff.com/Damp-Proofing.html
Extractor fans
- Thread starter jonathanwilliamwright
- Start date
It was built 1950 and a 3 story house.
Found a price list on net this gives me a rough idea what im going to be paying out.
http://www.buildingsheriff.com/Damp-Proofing.html
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This is confusing me is rising damp a myth or not ?
http://www.architectsjournal.co.uk/...a-myth-says-former-rics-chief/5204095.article
http://www.architectsjournal.co.uk/...a-myth-says-former-rics-chief/5204095.article
Yes its ground floor only apart from upstairs bedroom which has major pointing work issues which i will be sorting once its warm and dry.
Yes it has wooden floors.
Had a mate send me this link which he says solved his damp problem.But is this fixing the problem or just hiding the problem?
http://www.twistfix.co.uk/products/...roducts.html?gclid=CKGIkv7F_7ACFQwjfAodMxxFPQ
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1.Have you opened windows to rule out condensation?
2.Lift a floorboard and check there is no river or dampness, i would expect to see a concrete slab under the boards.
3.If its damp in all downstair rooms with the windows open to a height no more than 4' you need a DPC injected.
"The Cure" for rising damp, its recomended you hack off the plaster back to the brickwork 3feet i go to 4feet, get prices to inject the silicon based liquid into your walls, apply two coats of sand/cement 4/1 useing a waterproofer in both coats, then skim over with multi finish, i strongly recomend that you use Sovereign waterproofer at 30/1 or 1 builders bucket water 1 tin can (I use plum tomatoes empty tin myself) Sovereign, there are other makes on the market, be warned!
2.Lift a floorboard and check there is no river or dampness, i would expect to see a concrete slab under the boards.
3.If its damp in all downstair rooms with the windows open to a height no more than 4' you need a DPC injected.
"The Cure" for rising damp, its recomended you hack off the plaster back to the brickwork 3feet i go to 4feet, get prices to inject the silicon based liquid into your walls, apply two coats of sand/cement 4/1 useing a waterproofer in both coats, then skim over with multi finish, i strongly recomend that you use Sovereign waterproofer at 30/1 or 1 builders bucket water 1 tin can (I use plum tomatoes empty tin myself) Sovereign, there are other makes on the market, be warned!
Ive not checked under floor boards yet I'll do that when i get in from work. Got windows open all the time now to ventilate property.
How much would it cost to have someone diagnose where the problem is coming from?
Go to your local Yellow Pages, "timber and damp treatment" beware of company reps wearing suits, guarrentees you need to top up or are in your name only not on the house, not worth the paper they're written on, a one or two man outfit with a local accent and telephone landline, phone and ask if they charge for a quote, if they do phone another, recomendations go a long way, has anyone on the DIY site in the Cumbria region had this work done?
The rising damp industry is full of cowboys. Even the so called established nationwide outfits are cowboys. They are your last port of call.
Do you have extractor fans in kitchen and bathroom? If not your first job is to fit them. You need them even if you don't think you have a damp problem.
Then go outside and look at the wall where you have a problem. Are the gutters leaking and spilling water on the wall? Is there anything which would make the wall excessively damp from the outside?
Then go around your house at damp proof course level and see whether there is anything up against the wall which would allow water in the ground to breach the course. For example soil piled up. If you find it then shift it.
If your house was built in the 50s it almost certainly has a working damp proof course. Do not get a rising damp company in until you have exhausted every other possibility. When they come round be a good host and have somewhere they can water their horse.
Checked outside front of house the other week and the guttering was all leaking .Now had that replaced.
How high is damp proof level? sorry to be abit unknowing.
Outside below the window ground level is a piece of pebble dash missing with green moss growing on it.
Could a leak from this go on to opposite side of the room and make wall damp on low level?
Damp proof course should be 6inches above ground level. You should be able to see something, or it might be where you have blue bricks stop.
If you have a hole in the pebble dash then that needs looking at, could be other places letting rain into your wall.
I'm not going to ask again about your extractor fans as you are refuse to answer the question.
Good luck.
If you have a hole in the pebble dash then that needs looking at, could be other places letting rain into your wall.
I'm not going to ask again about your extractor fans as you are refuse to answer the question.
Good luck.
No ive not got extractor fans yet hopefully going to get them fitted soon. Only just bought property.
Yes got a builder coming round next week should be able to find out then. The kitchen walls are more or less dry now since ive took the wallpaper off. Also the front reception room wall was soaking wet since ive took the wall paper off the wall is dry now. The wall paper had silver foil on underneath from last owner.
Noticed the door frame is cracked and leaking also outside the house damp proof level is soil going 15 inch's up and the bricks on ground level are chipped and broken abit and covered in green moss.
I would like to say thanks to you all you have given me some really good advice on this forum.
Do please show us some photos.
Count how many air bricks you have and how far apart.
Look under the ground floor for damp and airflow.
The airbricks are probably choked with dirt
Your bad gutters will have made the walls wet and they take months to dry.
Sounds like you have plumbing leaks too.
Ventilation is your friend.
Count how many air bricks you have and how far apart.
Look under the ground floor for damp and airflow.
The airbricks are probably choked with dirt
Your bad gutters will have made the walls wet and they take months to dry.
Sounds like you have plumbing leaks too.
Ventilation is your friend.
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