Fascias : paint or replace with plastic?

[kez1]

Hi,

I have a bungalow with at least 67 metres length of fascias around the building (perimeter).
Currently they are painted black.
Clearly they need to be painted or replaced.
I went round the marine ply that is the fascias this morning and it is solid, apart from a few areas, which could be patched.

The fascias are 24cm high and the underside soffits, also painted black run back 32cm to the wall. The underside soffit paintwork is solid.

I would prefer white as a colour.

Anyone recommend:
1. paint system to use
2. plastic fascias-soffits supplier / system.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Untitled

• kez1
• 9 Jun 2015
• 1

Untitled

• kez1
• 9 Jun 2015
• 1

Untitled

• kez1
• 9 Jun 2015
• 1

Untitled

• kez1
• 9 Jun 2015
• 1

Untitled

• kez1
• 9 Jun 2015
• 1

Untitled

• kez1
• 9 Jun 2015
• 1

Untitled

• kez1
• 9 Jun 2015
• 1

Untitled

• kez1
• 9 Jun 2015
• 1

Untitled

• kez1
• 9 Jun 2015
• 1

Untitled

• kez1
• 9 Jun 2015
• 1

Untitled

• kez1
• 9 Jun 2015
• 1

Untitled

• kez1
• 9 Jun 2015
• 1

Untitled

• kez1
• 9 Jun 2015
• 1

 

[Mw Roofline]

You can over clad if you want. Why don't you have black fascias and traditional black round guttering? Everybody seems to have white fascias and white square guttering. Even though we fit loads it's so blimmin common with zero character.

Up to you really. Whereabouts are you?

 

[kez1]

Thanks Mw Roofline

I'm in Aberdeen. Cladding sounds good. How can this be done?

ps Was at Johnstone's paint this afternoon and they have recommended
o Johnstones stormshield flexible underprimer undercoat, and
o Johnstones stormshield flexible satin on top.
... that's if I go the paint route.
They said that with good keying/ prep the job will last a long time.

I'm by the sea and really want to get rid of any maintenance. I know if it is either
o plastic replacement, or
o plastic overclad

.. I can (more or less) forget about it forever.

How does over clad compare with complete plastic replacement, in terms of being maintenance free?
Thank you for your reply

 

[Mw Roofline]

You'll be looking around 450 for materials in white and about 650 if you had the fascia in black. Buy from eurocell they have branches everywhere.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

I'm not sure about the replace v overclad discussion- I'd be tempted if your marine ply is in good nick) to overclad. Though given your seaside location check the fixings into the roof joists haven't started corroding.

Overcladding is easier and quicker than complete replacement but do check that the extra thickness won't push your guttering too far away from the edge of the roof.

If you decide to replace there's a decent video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=af3dEv1e_AY

And for the boards this lot http://www.speedyplasticsandresins.co.uk/ are cheap and quick (much cheaper than Eurocell on my garage build)

 

[kez1]

Hi Guys

I've just managed to pick this up again.
I'm going to overclad the fascias and soffits.

I have priced up the quotes for the overcladding boards as follows

• Eurocell £1,028.40 delivered
• Speedy plastics and resins £849.82 (www.speedyplasticsandresins.co.uk)

There is probably a popular supplier that can deliver for much less than both.

Anyone any further supplier recommendations ?

Thank you

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Well that's a chunk of change to be spending- disappointed that my Welsh pals aren't a bit keener on price. In my circumstances (time rich and cash limited) especially on a bungalow (not dicking about at the top of an extension ladder) I'd be very tempted to sand back to flat and paint the ply- take your time sanding to get a good sound surface, prime, undercoat and gloss and the painted end result will look really nice and last between 10 and 20 years. Best to remove the guttering while you're sanding and budget for replacing the clips, they'll probably be brittle with age.

 

[ree]

Others have far more experience than me in soffits and fascias but FWIW the fascia seems to have been done in rippings of ply, which is a sound practice.
The porch(?) and the bay show very deep fascias.
Even with ply, pic 7 for instance, shows heavy fungal damage to the tail of a barge board, and other small patches of water or fungal damaged fascia can be seen.

The major problem seems to have been the poor prep work for the original painting esp. at the mitres and joins. And seemingly no prepping for the later black coat - not even a quick sanding.

Unless there's over fascia venting there doesn't seem to be any eaves venting - hows the atmosphere in the loft?

 

[terrypin]

Before you go any further, fascia boards may appear to be sound until you remove the gutters, fascia boards are often far worse behind them due to lack of painting(restricted access with a paint brush)and porous felt allowing rainwater to blow back and run behind the gutter.

Once you remove the gutters your decision may be made for you.

Ps: replace the gutters. The clips will break, the rubbers will need replacing so new fittings(outlets, unions etc.)will be required, these are the more expensive components of your rainwater system so it won't be much more to buy the lengths of gutter.

 

[Mw Roofline]

You don't need us to remind you not to buy gloss black fascia do you? Make sure it's foiled.

 

[Mw Roofline]

Oh and btw, have you got a van? Come to Birmingham and pick up the materials and my supplier will beat that cheaper price. Email me their quote and I'll fax it to my supplier.

 

[kez1]

Others have far more experience than me in soffits and fascias but FWIW the fascia seems to have been done in rippings of ply, which is a sound practice.
The porch(?) and the bay show very deep fascias.
Even with ply, pic 7 for instance, shows heavy fungal damage to the tail of a barge board, and other small patches of water or fungal damaged fascia can be seen.

The major problem seems to have been the poor prep work for the original painting esp. at the mitres and joins. And seemingly no prepping for the later black coat - not even a quick sanding.

Unless there's over fascia venting there doesn't seem to be any eaves venting - hows the atmosphere in the loft?

Hi Ree,

Yes there is no venting on the roofline. The venting is, I think, provided by the 2 mm gap that often occurs between the marine ply used for the fascia and the soffit. The loft gets super hot on a warm summers day, has about 10 inches of insulation wool, and is never damp or moist. Always really dry and dusty, even in winter. Probably some other gaps there somewhere.

 

[kez1]

Well that's a chunk of change to be spending- disappointed that my Welsh pals aren't a bit keener on price. In my circumstances (time rich and cash limited) especially on a bungalow (not dicking about at the top of an extension ladder) I'd be very tempted to sand back to flat and paint the ply- take your time sanding to get a good sound surface, prime, undercoat and gloss and the painted end result will look really nice and last between 10 and 20 years. Best to remove the guttering while you're sanding and budget for replacing the clips, they'll probably be brittle with age.

Hi OldButNotDead,

I did get some really good paint with the intention of doing this. After some discussions and recommendations from suppliers I ended up with
o Johnstones Stormshield Flexible Satin Brilliant White 2.5 Litres, and
o Johnstones Stormshield Flexible Undercoat Brilliant White 2.5 Litres
these are expensive and super quality / really good quality paints.

I used one of the cans for windows and found it to be super runny.
I just got on with the job and mopped up afterwards.
I'm not a painter, I've done lots of painting though; but I've never used a paint so runny.
It just seemed to go everywhere except where it was supposed to.
Probably a pro painter finds it easier because it just sloshes about very quickly; if you know what your doing. I'm not sure tho.
I had no inclination after the windows to load a brush with it, upside down, while trying to reach a soffit.

 

[kez1]

Well that's a chunk of change to be spending- disappointed that my Welsh pals aren't a bit keener on price. In my circumstances (time rich and cash limited) especially on a bungalow (not dicking about at the top of an extension ladder) I'd be very tempted to sand back to flat and paint the ply- take your time sanding to get a good sound surface, prime, undercoat and gloss and the painted end result will look really nice and last between 10 and 20 years. Best to remove the guttering while you're sanding and budget for replacing the clips, they'll probably be brittle with age.

Thanks OldButNotDead,

If I go the painting route I will be sure to replace the clips.

 

[kez1]

Before you go any further, fascia boards may appear to be sound until you remove the gutters, fascia boards are often far worse behind them due to lack of painting(restricted access with a paint brush)and porous felt allowing rainwater to blow back and run behind the gutter.

Once you remove the gutters your decision may be made for you.

Ps: replace the gutters. The clips will break, the rubbers will need replacing so new fittings(outlets, unions etc.)will be required, these are the more expensive components of your rainwater system so it won't be much more to buy the lengths of gutter.

Hi Terrypin

Thanks.

I will be sure to take a gutters/ gutter clips off and have a look behind these for any signs of rot, and check for good attachment to the roof line. I will very likely also replace the guttering and associated fittings and down pipes at the same time.