Faulty/Noisy Honeywell Valve

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Hi all,

I have an oil-fired closed system with a tank that provides my heating and hot water.

I've always had trouble with the valves on this system since it was installed in that one of them frequently made a noise when the heating of the water started.

However, recently the heating of the hot water does not always switch on as timed in the control unit. I've identified that the problem is the exit valve on the tank. Sometimes it works automatically, sometimes I have to open the port manually.

What puzzles me is the noise it makes when I open the valve. You can see/hear for yourself in this video:


I'm thinking that if I replace the head on the valve, things should go back to normal but the noise still troubles me. Can I assume it's due to a fault in the valve's gears or is there someting wrong with the system in general that causes the noise (and hence if I change the valve, the noise will persist)?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Jever
 
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I've identified that the problem is the exit valve on the tank. Sometimes it works automatically, sometimes I have to open the port manually.
There is an arrow on the brass body of the valve. Assuming you are correct that the valve is on the exit side, the arrow should be poiting away from the cylinder, i.e downwards.

The intermittent operation could be due to a faulty actuator but you need to check all components in the control chain, i.e programmer and thermostat. A multimeter is required.
 
you say it has been noisy from install, there will be a flow also marked coil1 higher up on the cylinder, with HW switched on feel both pipes and the top flow pipe should be hotter than the return lower pipe , if it is the other way round that is your problem causing the clunk
 
Hi,

Thanks for the feedback. Yes, there's an arrow on the exit valve and it's pointing downwards. If I can get my hands on a multimeter, is there any guidance available that will show me how to identify what's at fault? If so, I'll go out and buy one.

There's another pipe on the tank (slightly higher, round from the exit) marked coil. When the water's heating, this one is slightly hotter than the one that makes the noise (exit), so that doesn't appear to be the problem.

The inlet to the tank coil comes from a three-way port valve, so I assume this valve is fed from the boiler and distributes to the radiators and/or the coil in the water tank.

What puzzles me is that if I understand the system correctly, there's a valve for the coil input and then another one on the coil exit. Surely only one valve is necessary? Could it be possible that there's a slight timing difference between the opening of the two valves, which caused the clunking sound?

Jever
 
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What puzzles me is that if I understand the system correctly, there's a valve for the coil input and then another one on the coil exit. Surely only one valve is necessary? Could it be possible that there's a slight timing difference between the opening of the two valves, which caused the clunking sound
it is part of the regs of fitting an unvented Cylinder that when using a 3 port then a 2 port must also be used as a safety cut out in the event of a failure causing the cylinder to over heat, dont shoot the messenger I agree there are better ways but I dont write the regs, nothing a multi meter will tell you to stop this problem
 
As you have an unvented cylinder you need to employ an engineer with a G3 qualification (it's the regulations) to diagnose and recitify the problem.
 

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