Feider Petrol Lawn Mower Timing

[Hysteresis]

I have a 5 month old Feider FTDT4640ES Lawn Mower.
I was happy with the Machine performance but only used it 6 times and it lost power mid cut and stopped. I could not get it restarted using the pull cord or the electric start. Several Back Fires occurred when trying to start it, eventually it splutter into running but very under powered. After stopping the machine I could not get a restart.
The symptoms look like the timing of the engine has somehow slipped. Has anyone an idea as to how I can re-time the machine?

 

[Stivino]

Here are the instructions, which you've probably already read.
If it's only 5 months old and you suspect it is out of kilter, it should be under guarantee.

 

[Hysteresis]

Thanks Stivino, I didn't get those instructions with my machine so thanks very much.
You are right, the machine is still under guarantee, but I think the supplier may construe the issue to be operator error in that I think they will try the excuse that the machine has struck an object such as a stone in order to cause the problem and as such not under the guarantee terms. The machine hasn't as far as I am aware struck anything, clearly it may have encountered a small twig but nothing major. I have used lawn mowers for 60 years and this problem has never happened before, so I would maintain the machine is not fit for purpose if it can't handle a small twig.
The resetting of the timing seems to be a rather big exercise so I will have to return it to the suppliers for specialist attention. If I try to fix it, I would certainly violate the manufacturers warranty. I will just have to take the financial hit I fear. The problem with supplier return is exacerbated by carriage charges as it was bought via the internet.

 

[Stivino]

Assuming you have enough of the proper fuel in it, have you checked to see if it is getting a spark?

 

[Hysteresis]

Yes, New Fresh Fuel is in the machine, the supplier has suggested I had old fuel in the machine and apparently they maintain the E10 fuel is more prone to deterioration that the E5 which used too be in petrol stations, Rather clutching at straws I suspect. There is a spark at the plug and I have renewed the plug just to be sure of the easy bits to replace.

 

[Stivino]

You seem to be doing all the right things.
I would be inclined to remove the plug and leave everything to dry out overnight.
Spin the engine over a few times to clear aany excess fuel that might be in there too, being careful to keep the lead away from the plug hole to prevent any gases igniting.
One of my routines with things like that is to remove the plug and heat it with a little blowlamp before putting it back in. That will dry it and give it a better chance to fire.
I've also been known to put the flame into the cylinder to dry that too. But, I'm not suggesting you do that because it's dangerous.
I think it's unlikely but not impossible that the timing has slipped so try to be patient.

 

[lostinthelight]

E5 is still available and I use nothing else, it costs more but I cant use that E10 cr@p

 

[Burnerman]

The timing doesn’t slip, but it’s not uncommon for the woodruff key that holds the flywheel to the crankshaft to shear.
The only way to really check is to pop the flywheel off for a look.
John

 

[Hysteresis]

You seem to be doing all the right things.
I would be inclined to remove the plug and leave everything to dry out overnight.
Spin the engine over a few times to clear aany excess fuel that might be in there too, being careful to keep the lead away from the plug hole to prevent any gases igniting.
One of my routines with things like that is to remove the plug and heat it with a little blowlamp before putting it back in. That will dry it and give it a better chance to fire.
I've also been known to put the flame into the cylinder to dry that too. But, I'm not suggesting you do that because it's dangerous.
I think it's unlikely but not impossible that the timing has slipped so try to be patient.

The fact that the machine was running OK for half an hour before the loss of power and subsequent stop eliminates fuel and wet plugs etc I think, would you agree, Also a New plug did not enable starting,. Because of the Back firing whilst pulling my arms out by the sockets leads me to the albeit 'amateur' conclusion, that it is the timing is the problem and if this is because I encountered a little twig whilst mowing then if the flywheel has slipped, maybe the this suggest that the machine is unfit for light domestic service.

 

[Hysteresis]

The timing doesn’t slip, but it’s not uncommon for the woodruff key that holds the flywheel to the crankshaft to shear.
The only way to really check is to pop the flywheel off for a look.
John

Would it be possible that the flywheel is held to the crankshaft utilising a grub screw of some description? Shearing a Woodruff key would need an awful lot of energy of sledge hammer proportions. With respect to 'Popping the flywheel' off sounds like a major undertaking for a Mechanical Numpty such as my self, the thought scares me to death.

 

[Hysteresis]

E5 is still available and I use nothing else, it costs more but I cant use that E10 cr@p

All of my local garages stock nothing but E10.

 

[Stivino]

Would it be possible that the flywheel is held to the crankshaft utilising a grub screw of some description?

I've only ever seen Woodruff keys there.

 

[Hysteresis]

Hi Stivino, Certainly more than I have seen. My observations are limited to the engine plastic cover.

 

[Burnerman]

Would it be possible that the flywheel is held to the crankshaft utilising a grub screw of some description? Shearing a Woodruff key would need an awful lot of energy of sledge hammer proportions. With respect to 'Popping the flywheel' off sounds like a major undertaking for a Mechanical Numpty such as my self, the thought scares me to death.

Flywheels are keyed onto the crankshaft, which is tapered too - 99% of the time.
I’m not saying this is your problem, although the symptoms are likely......but woodruff keys do shear.
Flywheel removal isn’t a big deal but of course may void the warranty.
John

 

[Hysteresis]

Flywheels are keyed onto the crankshaft, which is tapered too - 99% of the time.
I’m not saying this is your problem, although the symptoms are likely......but woodruff keys do shear.
Flywheel removal isn’t a big deal but of course may void the warranty.
John

Yeah, Warranty is the issue, and buying on the Internet has its problems. I will have to bear the considerable shipping costs, and I will not be able to refute the suppliers claim that the problem is user misuse although if one considers going over a 6mm twig is user misuse then I am guilty.
My view is that if that is the case the machine is unfit for light domestic service