Fill up gap between door frame and surface of plasterboard

[Deleted member 174758]

I'm beginning to wonder what happened to the concept of rough sawing to a line then planing to fit? Using a plunging rail saw to cut tapers seems to be overkill to my mind, especially as the gap in all probability won't be consistently straight (i.e. a constant taper). Rail saws don't work at all well on narrow pieces of material (you need to support the rail and ensure that the workpiece cannot move whilst you make the cut). You also have the additional problem of figuring out where the cut will actually be because for a narrow taper you will need to measure off the outside of the blade not the anti-splinter strip. I'm not saying it can't be done, merely that there are far, far easier ways of doing this

 

[alex889]

I ended up getting 12, 6 and 4mm wood strips so I could cut them and the steps in between I could smooth with a routing tool. It worked fine, just a minimal cosmetic gaps here and there which I'm planning to use some sort of filler and then hide it completely with paint.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

You should try getting yourself a block plane and learn how to sharpen it - far easier than using a router and far more controllable

 

[opps]

I'm beginning to wonder what happened to the concept of rough sawing to a line then planing to fit? Using a plunging rail saw to cut tapers seems to be overkill to my mind, especially as the gap in all probability won't be consistently straight (i.e. a constant taper). Rail saws don't work at all well on narrow pieces of material (you need to support the rail and ensure that the workpiece cannot move whilst you make the cut). You also have the additional problem of figuring out where the cut will actually be because for a narrow taper you will need to measure off the outside of the blade not the anti-splinter strip. I'm not saying it can't be done, merely that there are far, far easier ways of doing this

When I cut my long section, I cut it off the edge of a board of MDF.

I made the section become part of the architrave that I machined from the same sheet of MDF rather then using it to widen the door liner.

MDF glued to mdf, 15 years later and all is fine. Yeah, you can see that that the distance between the architrave and door liner runs out but the bathroom is only about 2m by 2m.

The door frame didn't have removable door stops. If I had extended the door liner on the hinge side I would have needed to pack out the door stops. Additionally, had I packed out the door liner, some of the hinge screws would have been very close to the new join.