Filling large gaps around window and behind skirting

Joined
20 Feb 2012
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Location
Cambridgeshire
Country
United Kingdom
Hi,

Just bought a new house and I must say this website has been invaluable in helping me along with various bits.

A question that I have found some information on but would appreciate some help with is to do with some gaps in plaster.

Background: I am stripping bedrooms one at a time, the first had an installed raised bed, so not wanting that, I pulled it out and had to re-do some laminate flooring. In doing so, pulling the skirting off revealed some plaster breaking away from the wall. As well, pulling a baton off the window ripped about half the plaster off!

So, it needs repairing. The following threads:

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=264741

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=180915

suggest that perhaps:

1) Fill the window gaps with 2 pack foam (expanding foam)
2) PVA/water mix over the loose plaster
3) Skim over with one coat plaster for both cases, but leave a gap at the bottom of the skirting between floor and wall

is the way to go.

Is this right for my scenario? Pictures below

Any other suggestions, that I could do by myself appreciated

Cheers

Stu

View media item 81698 View media item 81699 View media item 81700 View media item 81698
 
Sponsored Links
Remove any "wood" trim (like the vertical piece in pic 1.) from around the window frames, and clean off all surrounding wall paper. This will give you a better view of whats what.

Do the frames have lintels directly above them?

The white flex should not be channeled in the wall like that - what is it feeding?

There appears to be an historic inside corner crack in pic 3. Is this a gable wall, a party wall or a dividing wall between rooms?

Have you had a spirit level on the floor near pic 3. to check that the floor has not dropped.

Can you post a pic of the w/frame area floor to ceiling?
 
Thanks for the info, I'm at work now so will post pics later, but in answer to some of the questions:

1) the wall is/was a gable wall, an extension was built over the garage so there is now a bedroom the other side of the wall
2) in picture 3, the wall to the right is the stair wall and houses an airing cupboard
3) the flex goes to a double wall socket, I must admit I was shocked to find that but out of interest, as its a brick wall, what would be the proper way?

Cheers

Stu
 
1) Is there a knock-thro directly below either wall in pic 3?

2) Is that a stud partition or a brick supporting wall?

3) 2.5mm T&E cable is for ring mains or ring spurs - dont ever use flex in a ring, and never "bury" flex.
Best practice would be that the cable replacement for the flex should be covered in 25mm metal channel.
It would pay you to investigate behind switch/outlet plates and confirm that the correct cables are in place.

The old floor boards and skirting have been replaced in recent times - do you know why?

Prior to releasing any painted or papered in trim etc. run a knife along the edges and it will come off without spelching any plaster or other decoration.
 
Sponsored Links
Nope, no knock through, it's the garage wall

The other wall looks as if it has had plaster board put on top of the original wall, the photo below shows that from a low angle, you can see it is just a cutout for the laminate flooring (which I guess is what you referred to as new flooring?) which is already laid; there is one last bit to go in, so hence you can see a step

On too the window, there is a lintel it seems, fairly hard when you knock it with your hand. Pulled off the extra trim as advised - good call as there was lining paper underneath - to reveal a cavity around it between the plaster and window but you can see the (membrane?) around the window there so guess the trim is there for a reason to hide the gap.

Cheers

Stu

View media item 81740 View media item 81741 View media item 81742
 
Whats happened, so it seems, is that the lazy window fitters have set the frame in almost flush with the outside brick face, instead of recessing it by a 75mm min.

The cavity has been left exposed but you can fill and finish all the gaps as proposed in your references. Presumably, the other side (LH) of the frame requires the same treatment?

If necessary, lightly skim the filler - plumbing supplies usually carry small bags of Multi repair plaster.

Be aware for the future that the inside corner of the room has that existing crack but dont do anything with it beyond re-decorating.

There appears to be a chipboard panel below the foam underlay - that is the renewed flooring that i was referring to.
 
A small update on this thread, life got in the way and 3 months down the line I am back on this room....!

I followed suggestion son here so thanks, and to provide an idea of where it is at, please see enclosed the window recess now.

This is following:

1) Expanding foam, set and then trimmed back with a blade to slightly below the plaster
2) One coat plaster skimmed over
3) Primed
4) Polyfilla for the final blemishes
5) Emulsion which is where it is at now while I decide on finish

I have to say the major headache in all of this was preparing and then mist coating the walls; the lining paper had a lot of glue residue which was removed with a scraper and white vinegar/water from a mister.

The paint seems to be ok, and sanding between coats has made the world of difference

Thanks all, further updates in due course



View media item 85923
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top