First radiator in loop on open vent system...

If your boiler has overheat protection then a simpler and less expensive way is to pipe it like this:- View media item 29821Simple bit of pipework. The only somewhat tricky bit (for a diyer) is cutting hole in expansion tank.
 
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Ideally with about 1ft between the expansion and cold feed.

I think distance should read maximum 150mm which is six inches.

Ok ... Well mine looks instantly wrong straight away then as from my boiler there is a pipe with the pump attached about a foot of pipe work away with an arrow pointing away from my boiler. Where this goes i dont know as i cant trace the pipe work to easy but i guess this is a problem straight away?

It is not the pump that indicates if the system is plumbed incorrectly, it is the positioning of vent and feed pipe in relation to the pump that leads to problems. Switch you system off, fill a jug with water and offer the jug to vent pipe. Get someone to switch the system to HW and see if vent takes a drink from the jug. Do that for CH aw well. If the vent takes a drink, then call AA to fix your plumbing

Close coupling was not always the fad, but close coupled vent and feed also can result in pump over i.e. it is not fool proof. Often boilers like the Kingfisher came with multiple tappings. Top and a bottom connection would have been for vent and feed and another pair for pumped circulation. No issues with that setup either.

No doubt, sealed systems are preferable, but can your installation be subjected to higher working pressure?


Pump can pump harder and therefore drive the water to more radiators and bigger distances.

Dcawkwell, can you explain why that is the case? not having a go but not a thing I can understand.
 
we could do with a bit more info , make /model of boiler and if system is fully pumped or gravity hot water/ pumped heating as its all guess work at moment . and my guess is it has a slight leak on pump valve which is sucking air in when in use
 
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Dcawkwell, can you explain why that is the case? not having a go but not a thing I can understand.
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With a vented system the pump is limited by the amount of head pressure
the header tank can supply.

For long distances where or pumping up close to the top of the house near
the header tank it becomes easier for the pump to pump water into the header tank than the radiator where you want it.

Sealed system doesn't have this problem. Full force of the pump is supplied to the water pushing into the radiators.

Sealed systems for me everytime. I don't install anything else.
 
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With a vented system the pump is limited by the amount of head pressure
the header tank can supply

If it was receiving head pressure from the cistern it would empty itself.
It would then be classed as an open system.
A closed system has a neutral point.
Clearly, when the pump operates the system is under the algerbraic sum of static pressure and pump pressure at any point.
 
With a vented system the pump is limited by the amount of head pressure the header tank can supply.

Surely pump is only moving water. Higher system pressure does not mean it will push water further. On pumped side water will be at positive pressure and on suction at negative pressure, so the water gets shoved forward.

For long distances where or pumping up close to the top of the house near
the header tank it becomes easier for the pump to pump water into the header tank than the radiator where you want it.

If the system is correctly plumbed, I believe with minimum specified distance between highest radiator and water level in the header tank, water will NOT pump over.

There is a place for sealed system as well as open vented. I will work with both and carry out repairs to either system
 
we could do with a bit more info , make /model of boiler and if system is fully pumped or gravity hot water/ pumped heating as its all guess work at moment . and my guess is it has a slight leak on pump valve which is sucking air in when in use

Voila is an alpha cd24r

Hot water and heating is turned on together with a room stat and a tank stat to flick either off when upto temp

The water cylinder is on the loft, there is one pump on one of the two ppes I can see at the boiler. Looking at the pump it's pumping away from the boiler and it's set to what looks like 3 out of a possible 3 (ful power I guess)

Anything else you need to know...

Many thanks for all of your responses and interest :)

LP
 
only just read through this thread......I think you may have corrosion going on, as suggested earlier. The reason for this argument is the fact your lighter flame was blown out, it is unlikely there would be enough air pressure to extinguish a flame, try the test again, when lit the hydrogen burning will roar similar to the noise made when blowing on a lit hob.
 
Dcawkwell wrote

Sealed system doesn't have this problem. Full force of the pump is supplied to the water pushing into the radiators.

Looks like boiler is sealed system boiler
 
hi all again... with ragrds to thinking i have corrosion issues, would the radiators not need bleeding all the time even when the system is off?

The air only builds up when the system is turned on?
 

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