Fitting a stove in a workshop

[I'm not a robot]

Hello,

My son bought a stove for our workshop but it's just a stove with no pipe or anything else, looking for advice on the fitting side of things please.

I have worked out pretty much almost all of what I need in terms of pipe but need to know if I need joining bands or cement, dampers or cleaning access holes etc.

Also do we have to have twin wall or can we just use normal 5" vitreous pipe?

Thanks

 

[Burnerman]

Just for starters....the stove needs to be on a concrete (or similar ) hearth. Sizes are specific to avoid injury or tripping.
I use twin wall stainless, that locks together with a bayonet type system (only turns a few degrees) and no other jointing was required.
A soot chamber is available for your external 45 degree bend and is a good idea.
Go for a stove that draws it's combustion air from outside if possible - or you'll need other ventilation for it.
Support the twin wall as sturdily as possible from as high as practical.
There may be regulations on the type of timber and minerals you can burn......dried hardwood and ovoid coals are the way to go.
I'll not say any more, I presume full regs are available from HETAS or whatever on line, but I'll wish you well with your project!
John

 

[Tigercubrider]

Building control?

 

[big-all]

as my brother is a plumber i used old part radiators to line the alcove about 4-8" from the 4kw hot spot workshop burner with at least 50mm to the wood walls as an air gap
[looks like they dont do workshop stoves any more [https://www.thehotspot.co.uk/product-category/relax-workshop-stoves/]
i hang all my large metal record "G" clamps and heavy duty bar clamps on or around the radiators but far enough away to not effect the paint this gives me lots off metal mass to absorb the heat and stop heat being lost through the wall insulation

my stove sits on 600x600 paving slab

 

[I'm not a robot]

The workshop is actually our old garage and it has a concrete floor, I'll probably put the stove on a concrete flag 600mm x 600mm

Twinwall it is then, wow the components are pricey aren't they!

He got the stove off Facebook so no idea if it draws it's combustion air from outside, the workshop is not airtight by any means but I can fit a wall vent if required?

I'll fit the highest bracket through the fascia into the joist.

We will only be burning wood.

Where the pipe goes through the wall do I need to use fire cement to make good or can I just use regular mortar as it's insulated pipe?

 

[Burnerman]

In a normal dwelling, a 5kW stove does not need further ventilation....however, if there is any doubt a spill test can be done, which is essentially to find out how effective the flue is. Most people just leave the communicating doors open and natural draught is meant to take care of the combustion air.
Over 5kW then a wall vent is needed - which somewhat defeats the object of heating in the first place!
A stove which gets it's combustion air from the outside has an air inlet pipe at the bottom or side.....this is obvious to see.
Standard mortar is fine for pointing up masonry gaps when using twin wall - a hell of a price, I'll admit!
Consider an eco fan to fit on top of the stove - these do work well and are coming down in price.
Also consider a bird proof chimney top if you can, but it has to be one designed for solid fuel.
Sitting the stove on flags is a good idea, the idea being to stop people walking into it!
John

 

[foxhole]

You should be able look up the model to find heat output.Pallets are are a free fuel . Vent straight up thru Roof if you can.
Top should be a minimum height , think it’s around 4m.
Lots of flue pipe cheap on Facebook marketplace.

 

[big-all]

ok my 4kw stove
it takes 4" flue so top off stove to witches hat about 11fthigh
6" stainless starts just below the slope off the roof at about 6ft to witches hat so about 4ft exposed flue giving out heat before entering the stainless
the flue was held off the stainless by 2x1 planed 44x20mm
rammed full with loft fibreglass insulation then with wood now removed not only ventilation but any air drawn in by the stove is warmed by its passage
the insulation does bounce out a bit so probably about a 30mm x20mm tube so not massive

 

[Tigercubrider]

You can’t burn all pallets, check the wood for stamps.
EUR/EU or MB will release chemicals.
Don’t burn painted pallets

 

[foxhole]

You can’t burn all pallets, check the wood for stamps.
EUR/EU or MB will release chemicals.
Don’t burn painted pallets

Pallets are kiln dried , no chemicals , never burn painted .

 

[Tigercubrider]

Pallets intended for the EU are treated with Methyl Bromide. Some are only het treated.

 

[yorksbuilder]

Building control?

Outbuildings, e.g. sheds, garden rooms
and garages, rarely need any signing off
(as long as not habitable).

Lots of good info on https://stovefitterswarehouse.co.uk/pages/stove-fitters-manual

 

[big-all]

just to further add my burner was about 2008 so pre part "J" building regs
from new was set up with a foam extinguisher and a bucket off sand to hand as water and hot cast iron can shatter so prejudicial [wrong word ??]use off water to avoid hitting hot cast surfaces to stop explosive uncontrolled spread

 

[I'm not a robot]

It won't be getting signed off as it's only in the workshop

We will be burning mainly pallet wood as it's free and readily available.

I just need to source the flue parts now then.

Do all twin wall components require a locking band for connection or do some need cement or other type of bonding?

 

[Burnerman]

I get all of my stuff - including brushes - from fluesystems.co.uk.
Competitive pricing, good delivery and advice if you need it.
The twin wall I used had bands over the joint but no sealant required.
John