Hi i am having my electric meter moved by NEDL,at a cost of £600 !!!! to the outside wall and i need to fit the box ready for the meter.I have just purchased one but i am uncertain how to fix it.There are no holes at the back and a piece of wood inside at the back which i assume i remove in order to drill into the back of the cabinet.Any advice would be helpful
fitting a surface mounted electric meter box
- Thread starter highbury44
- Start date
Hi thanks for your reply,the link is www.meterboxesdirect.co.uk and the meter box i have bought is a surface mounted one
Drill 4 x holes- 2 below the top board screws (but catching the bracket at the back) and 2 above the bottom board screws (again catching the bracket at the back).
2" x 12's and brown plugs.
Obviously you will need to consider the box position and drill out a suitable hole to link tails from meter to CU (which I assume is inside the property).
Sleeve the hole with some pipe. 40mm hole and a bit of off cut from the plumbers merchant should do.
2" x 12's and brown plugs.
Obviously you will need to consider the box position and drill out a suitable hole to link tails from meter to CU (which I assume is inside the property).
Sleeve the hole with some pipe. 40mm hole and a bit of off cut from the plumbers merchant should do.
For anyone under the age of 50 he means 6x50s.
Serious Q though - what about sealing the holes to stop water getting into the box?
Offcut from the hockey stick will do just as well, they are usually far too long.
For sealing, put some clear silicone over the screw heads, and run a line of silicone around the back inside of the cabinet at the top and sides.
The board must NOT be removed.
The meter tails must enter through the hole already provided (centre right usually), otherwise you will likely find the cutout and other items can't be fitted where the DNO want them to go.
(for those who don't know - a hockey stick is the curved plastic pipe which goes into the bottom of the cabinet and connects to the underground duct)
Good luck with not removing the board if you need to drill holes.
But maybe there are holes already, at the bottom of those rectangular recesses in the corners. Would make sense, as it would keep the holes on the outside of the IP65 rated compartment...
But maybe there are holes already, at the bottom of those rectangular recesses in the corners. Would make sense, as it would keep the holes on the outside of the IP65 rated compartment...
I've always had to remove the back board, fix the box to the wall and then re fit the back board.
No problems.
No problems.
The ones I have fitted have the backboard smaller than the box so there is a gap between the board and the box sides, and holes are pre-drilled in the back of the box, so no need to remove anything.
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