Fitting Oak Mantel - Fixing Method?

[Chud]

Morning folks!

As part of the renovations in my front room we will be fitting a solid oak mantel/beam above the fireplace (mantel dimensions approx 1600 x 200 x 150mm).

I want the fixing to be hidden - we will be losing the back edge by recessing slightly into the plaster on the wall.
In terms of mounting I'd played around with a few ideas such as creating tenons that could be fitted to the wall to fit into mortices in the back of the beam locked in place by a peg driven up from the underside of the mantel...but I think I've now probably opted to go with a french cleat fitted to the wall and a corresponding recess routed into the back of the beam, I'd lock the cleat with a few screws driven again from the underside.

However it has occurred to me that this may not be the best/fastest/easiest way of doing this so I thought I'd ask what you would do?

 

[r896neo]

I would use a plug cutter to cut out 6 or so plugs from the rear and then use concrete screws to attach it. Then cover the screw heads with the plugs, if you Lin up the grain you barely notice them.

 

[foxhole]

I fixed mine with steel strap, screwed to the rear and let into the plaster, then fixed to wall and dec made good.Four pieces should do it.http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p50...=50096&gclid=CjwKEAjw1qHABRDU9qaXs4rtiS0SJADN

 

[Roger928]

I made corbels like these...
http://www.oakstoredirect.com/oak-c...-20484-p.asp?gclid=CIftve3q6c8CFckaGwodQqcBdg

for my fireplace.
Concealed angle bracket at the top and a screw through the front which is taper plug concealed. And a sliding dovetail to accept the solid oak mantle plank.

 

[foxhole]

I made corbels like these...
http://www.oakstoredirect.com/oak-c...-20484-p.asp?gclid=CIftve3q6c8CFckaGwodQqcBdg

for my fireplace.
Concealed angle bracket at the top and a screw through the front which is taper plug concealed. And a sliding dovetail to accept the solid oak mantle plank.

He is fitting an oak beam not a shelf.

 

[Doggit]

Has the beam completely dried, if not, it'll continue to shrink along it's length, and rip out anything you fix it with.

As to fixing, look at this ebay listing for ideas
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLID-OAK...hash=item3a8897188c:m:mS1piz5eRkQjzwUHDul8Xrg

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Floating-...90478d954db0f3a34036a3&pid=100506&rk=1&rkt=1&

 

[Roger928]

He is fitting an oak beam not a shelf.

That's what I fitted . A solid Oak beam. With large heavy duty corbels doing the supporting.

 

[Roger928]

I fixed mine with steel strap, screwed to the rear and let into the plaster, then fixed to wall and dec made good.Four pieces should do it.http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p50...=50096&gclid=CjwKEAjw1qHABRDU9qaXs4rtiS0SJADN

I'm surprised that worked. If someone leaned on it the straps would just pull from the wall surely?

 

[Chud]

Has the beam completely dried, if not, it'll continue to shrink along it's length, and rip out anything you fix it with.

Yes - it's been dried between 3-5 years by a reputable supplier - I can do without beams falling off the wall!

 

[foxhole]

I'm surprised that worked. If someone leaned on it the straps would just pull from the wall surely?

4 fixings per strap, 16 in total,150 mm concrete screws into masonry, very solid.

 

[Doggit]

Most methods suggested here will do the job, and in many ways, drilling from the front might well be the best, but I suspect you want the fixings to be hidden. If you use straps, you'll have to replaster a fair bit of wall, but if you go for normal oak beam fixings, then there'll be a minimal amount of repair work to do. One of the problems with hidden fixings, is being able to drill a straight hole in to the back of the beam, in the correct position, so at the end of the day, the method you use may well be determined by your skills.