fitting & sealing kitchen sink to worktop?

[stevenmc2]

What is the best for a secure tight and waterproof fitting?

I'm ready to fit kitchen sink to worktop. Should I use epoxy (plumbers) putty or silicone sealent. I've heard that putty also come in rolls/strips, which sounds handy for this kind of job?

Will sealent actually glue the sink to worktop or just seal any gaps?

Any particular make of putty or sealent you would recommend and any tips welcome

Cheers

 

[Tozzy]

Alright mate .

Never done this type of job before (no doubt I'm going to be doing this soon though when we redesign our kitchen), but I do have DIY knowledge.

Well really it probably depends on the type of sink you are fitting. If it's just the good old 'stainless steel with draining board' type sink (like ours lol), I would say for a tight fit, you need to make sure there are no gaps at the ends where the sink is going fit.

Silicone Sealant ¦ Worktop ¦ No Gap ¦ Sink ¦ No Gap ¦ Worktop ¦ Silicone Sealant .

Ok and basically, the sink just rests on top of the cupboard area. If any brackets/ fixings were supplied, make sure you use them.

Yea, I don't think you can go far wrong with silicone sealant but make sure you get a nice hard wearing one. Some are really crap where they go discoloured even when wiped down and crumble away after a few months. Maybe they all do lol? I have no idea about this.

Will sealent actually glue the sink to worktop or just seal any gaps?

Nope. That's what PVA Adhesive is for . Silicone is just basically to provide a waterproof band to prevent water from entering any gaps. You can use a filling knife to spread the sealant to achieve a nice neat edge .

Good luck.

P.S. A picture of the sink would be cool . If anyone has some better ideas, please let us know. My advice is just my own opinion.

 

[Scrit]

I have done the job a few times , so.....

What is the best for a secure tight and waterproof fitting?

The sink should come with a set of clips and a foam seal. Use these as they do work. If you are refitting an old sink then silicone can be used, but always be careful not to add too much silicone - it can be a devil to clean up. If you "glue" the sink, hob or anything else to the work top how will you ever get it out if you need to replace it? (and they sometimes do have to come out..... )

As to using PVA glue in a wet environment - DON'T unless it's an exterior grade. Interior grade PVA (e.g. Bostik Resin W GREEN) can re-dissolve on contact with water - exterior grade or D3 (like Bostik Resin W BLUE) is what they call cross-linked - it won't redissolve once it has set. Do seal all exposed chipboard edges such as cut-outs, but use silicone or acrylic caulk as the seal between the worktop and the wall. The way to get a good joint is not to add too much silicone, wear a disposable pladtic/latex glove, wet a finger and draw that down the joint. If the bead runs dry add a bit more and smooth again until it's right. If you aren't confident then get one of the cheap Plasplugs tile caulk tools from B&Q (yellow with 3 or 4 shaped ends to do grout corners)

Scrit

 

[Tozzy]

wet a finger and draw that down the joint.

Isn't that as bad as someone using there hands to smoothen concrete/ mortar instead of using a trowel (saw it on that house of horrors programme last week lol) ? What about a filling knife or a piece of card with a straight edge?

 

[Scrit]

wet a finger and draw that down the joint.

Isn't that as bad as someone using there hands to smoothen concrete/ mortar instead of using a trowel (saw it on that house of horrors programme last week lol) ? What about a filling knife or a piece of card with a straight edge?

Not in the same league! (I was going to say b*ll*x but I thought I'd be censored!) What you are trying to achieve is a radiused fillet between the edge of the worktop and the wall. And if you have scribed the back of the worktop to the wall properly the joint should only be a few millimetres wide (OK, that's in a perfect world ). Metal tools like filling knives are next to useless with silicone or acrylic sealants as they tend to stick to the sealant (as will a bit of card, for that matter) and in addition you run the risk that you will mark the worktop, especially with high gloss tops. So a wetted finger or a plastic jointing tool are infinitely better......... Er, might I ask if you've ever used silicone sealant or PVA?

Scrit

 

[Tozzy]

(as will a bit of card, for that matter)

It does stick yes, I agree. You have to do it very quick though and you still get a neat finish. Well, at least I did anyway when I tried it.

you run the risk that you will mark the worktop, especially with high gloss tops.

Agreed.

So a wetted finger or a plastic jointing tool are infinitely better

Yes, but I'd imagine that because fingers are curved, you will get a dip in the finish. I don't know as I've never tried it. I will try it tomorrow or something as I have a sealing job to do so, I'll get back to you on this. I want to see if it works and then if it does, I will use your method in future.

Er, might I ask if you've ever used silicone sealant or PVA?

lol .

 

[Scrit]

So a wetted finger or a plastic jointing tool are infinitely better

Yes, but I'd imagine that because fingers are curved, you will get a dip in the finish. I don't know as I've never tried it. I will try it tomorrow or something as I have a sealing job to do so, I'll get back to you on this. I want to see if it works and then if it does, I will use your method in future.

Just don't press too hard - and remember the full pack of "fingers" comes in several different sizes! Basicallly if yoy have found something that works, then I'd just stick to it.

Scrit

 

[stevenmc2]

All good advice. What about putty or sealent though to fit sink down? I've seen glue for non-porous surfaces that also acts as a sealent- would this do the trick?
cheers

 

[Scrit]

To recap: new sinks come with self-adhesive closed-cell foam sealing strip from the manufacturer and these are watertight if installed correctly (not difficult), they also come with clips to secure them in place on the worktop hold them in place - lose or damage this and the sink manufacturer or the local plumbers merchants should be able to supply a replacement/generic one --- soooooo, putty, superglue, mastic, Harbutt's Plasticene, chewing gum, welding rods, etc. are really a bit superfluous . If you need extra sealant then silicone does the job - especially as every builders and plumbers merchant in the universe seems to carry it (even LIDL do it at £1 a pop). Kitchen fittters carry it because it works better than the "alternatives" and it is multipurpose: seals backs of worktops, waste pipes, exposed edges, etc as well (but NEVER hobs!). So why is everyone trying to reinvent the wheel - and singularly failing

BTW putty goes as hard as rock over time and means the sink can't be got out without damaging it and/or the worktop.

Scrit

 

[stevenmc2]

scrit thanks! I dont have the foam backed strip you refer to, but there are clips, I'm presuming from your advice that this will sufice with some silicone

cheers again