Fitting toilet

[camerart]

Hi,

I'm about to fit a toilet in an old coal extension.

Is there a recommended distance from the outer wall for the toilet outlet pipe? I assume it comes through a hole in the damp course membrane?

I'm going to make a concrete floor, approximately the height of the pile of brick in the photo.

Any tips please.

Camerart. View media item 93982

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Any reason you can't do it the easy way & put the pipe through the wall (at the side or rear of the coalhole)- most modern toilets have rear exit anyway. Plus it keeps the bend accessible for rodding.

 

[noseall]

We set ours about 60mm off the masonry when allowing for a CC (close coupled) loo. This allows for 25-30mm plaster board, skim etc.

However they do vary and so does the plaster material thickness etc.

You are better off having adequate clearance because you can always add more material to the wall.

As said the simplest way is to exit the pan horizontally then link up with the drain externally.

 

[camerart]

Any reason you can't do it the easy way & put the pipe through the wall (at the side or rear of the coalhole)- most modern toilets have rear exit anyway. Plus it keeps the bend accessible for rodding.

Hi,

Thinking about the answer, I remembered something about vent pipes. This would be how I imagine your idea would work, where the toilet pipe goes into an upright vent bolted to the outside wall.

There was an outside toilet (behind the camera). I was hoping to connect to the pipe which would be almost a straight line to the junction manhole, but this is underground, so I was going to go downward, then app 100deg, then connect. There is a vent 4Mtrs away. (15-20 Mtrs pipe distance away)

Camerart.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Sounds confusing. How can the stack pipe be 4m and 20 m away at the same time? Bit of a sketch would be helpful (photo of fag packet is probably easier than using Autocad)

Your 100 degree bend (ie 10 degrees fall) is a bit on the steep side for plastic and could (paradoxically) lead to blockages- the water runs away too fast leaving the solids sat in the pipe.

Purpose of the vent is to allow air in to follow the charge down the pipe. No vent could leave a partial vacuum behind the charge which would tend to suck the water out of the U bend and give you internal stench.

 

[camerart]

Hi,

There are lots of pipes on the building, some of them routed in odd ways, I hope to figure those out later.

Here's a drawing of the house pipework. From what oldbutnotdead said about vents, it appears that I need one. If you look at the drawing, you will see a proposed window, I don't want the vent to 'block the view'.

I only mentioned 100 degrees, but I only meant not exactly 90degree.

The old dotted toilet outlet could be connected to allow for a washing machine drain, if possible. This is separate from the proposed one.

IMAGE Edited

Camerart. View media item 94018

 

[tony1851]

You can use an unvented stub stack externally if it is less than 5m from a connection to a drain (I think).

 

[theprinceofdarkness]

The door to your new toilet is in the centre of the wall?. I would run the handbasin and the butler sink waste in 40mm into the back of the toilet waste internally with a vacuum release valve up under the hand basin.
Frank

 

[oldbutnotdead]

What princeofdarkness said. You need to keep an eye on the pipe length from the butler sink tho- might have to go up to 50mm if it comes to more than 3 metres. And an internal air admittance valve will do the job just fine

 

[camerart]

Ok, thanks.

Is the suggestion to still go straight out of the back of the toilet, and through the wall behind the toilet? This would leave an elbow showing outside, then another into the under ground waste pipe.

Or is it now:

A toilet with straight out of the rear connection, with a connector See image: View media item 94033 fit sink outlet with air admittance valve? (The air admittance vale allows NO toilet vent pipe?)

Distance from Butler sink to toilet 1.5Mtr

Camerart.[/b]

 

[camerart]

Here is another possibility: View media item 94034 (The image shows right side sink connection, but I will use the other side)

If this is ok, then the downpipe from the toilet outlet will drop approx 0.8Mtr before meeting the waste pipe elbow.

Camerart.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

THe plan is to save you a pile of digging by re-using the soil pipe from the 'old' toilet (ie having your new loo where the old one was instead of under the proposed window). You're allowed 1300mm from floor level to bottom of pipe on a branch so your 900mm is bob-on. And since you're not digging the drains up you don't have to put access points at all those junctions you proposed.

I'd go with the pan connector with 40mm connector if I had the choice- much neater than the boss for indoor use.

And yes the air admittance valve removes the need for a stack pipe (as long as there is one on the system somewhere, which there is).

 

[camerart]

THe plan is to save you a pile of digging by re-using the soil pipe from the 'old' toilet (ie having your new loo where the old one was instead of under the proposed window). You're allowed 1300mm from floor level to bottom of pipe on a branch so your 900mm is bob-on. And since you're not digging the drains up you don't have to put access points at all those junctions you proposed.

I'd go with the pan connector with 40mm connector if I had the choice- much neater than the boss for indoor use.

And yes the air admittance valve removes the need for a stack pipe (as long as there is one on the system somewhere, which there is).

Ah, I see!

Good plan, but there's a flaw. The old toilet is up the other end of the 'room' and is encased in concrete, which I'm trying to carefully expose. As you know, the pipe is bound to crack, so I'll carry on till I get a clean end to join to.

I'll be back with the result

Camerart

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Makes sense. If you have access to a 9" grinder and a diamond disc you'll be able to nibble the concrete away. Or (and it sounds as if you have the depth) go under the concrete & cut the pipe. Whichever, you can get flexible couplings from plastic to clay for a couple of quid so as long as you don't smash the whole drop you'll be fine

 

[camerart]

I cleared a section of pipe at the old toilet end. Before cutting, I tried to test it for leaks. I don't have a 'bung' so I improvised with a party balloon, which worked surprisingly well What it proved though is that there is a leak. I notice that the path has subsided along some of the old pipe path, so I assume it is cracked.

For connecting the 40mm washing machine outlet, is there a flexible pipe that could be thread along the old pipework?

It looks as though I have to go back to the original plan.

Camerart.