Fitting toilet

[oldbutnotdead]

Well that's dull but good work actually proving the pipe (or disproving it if you see what I mean).

So yes back to the drawing board. I think you'd end up with something the size of radiator hose if you wanted a flexible pipe and it would be a poor (and expensive) solution- better to bite the bullet and either replace that pipe section from old loo to manhole OR put your new pipe in (I'd still go for pipe outside, roddable elbow into the ground and internal air admittance valve rather than vertical drop through the concrete myself- yes it looks a bit less tidy but much easier to do-no worries digging under the non-existent foundations of your coal-hole, loo will be able to fit nearer the wall.

For your washing machine and butler sink I'd put a tee in the pipe (where it drops outside the wall) then run a short bit of 110mm underground to a roddable gulley outside the coalhole. This will tick all the boxes for maintenance requirements for building control- though check the run from washing machine to gulley, if more then 3 metres it'll have to be 50mm (and your coalhole looks very similar in size to mine which is why I'd put the gulley outside the coalhole- run length from butler sink will be nowhere near 3m).

Then final job is either to remove the old (cracked) pipe from the old loo completely OR fill it full of concrete. You may find your new pipe will be running roughly where the old one is (under the coalhole doorway) so that's half the job done.

 

[camerart]

I measured up for fitting toilet where the old one was, but there isn't enough room, especially for the door, so its better that I to put it under the proposed window again.

Here's a 'quick' plan of what might work, with the washing machine 40mm pipe routed round the wall to the toilet connector.

You mention roddable access points. Are these needed at every end or junction in a waste pipe?

Camerart View media item 94095

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Yeah that's the plan ish EXCEPT;
With your loo going straight out through the wall you won't have clearance between the loo and the wall for an adaptor for the washing machine waste (unless you want your loo to be about 250mm further away from the wall than is is designed for). Which is why I suggested the gulley being outside the coalhole & washing machine draining into it and butler sink draining into it via a slightly longer (but nowhere near 3000) run from sink to gulley.

You need access for maintenance at any change of direction of the pipes. If you think 'that pipe is blocked, how can I clear it' when you're designing the layout then you quickly start to see where you need to make access available.

With your gulley joining the new run from the loo you need some means of getting a rod into that leg- easiest way is a roddable gulley, then you're pushing the rubbish towards the manhole where it can be retrieved.

Same with the new run from the loo- rods will go round 1 bend, they'll struggle with 2 so having an access point where the pipe drops from horizontal to vertical will do that for you. Especially if the bottom bend is a rest bend- not compulsory for your drop but has a wider radius so is less likely to block and easier to clear if it does block.

Up to you if you want to have an underground junction as shown in your sketch (where the loo and gulley pipes merge)- for simplicity I'd link the gulley to the drop from the loo and then only have one continuous underground pipe- no complex angles to sort out for starters, less digging, what's not to like?

 

[camerart]

Ok, I'll get digging, while your messages sink in

I think those air admittance valves must be inside, but can I do without one with what you suggest? The old toilet didn't have one!

C.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Your runs are probably short enough that you won't absolutely need an air admittance valve - as you point out the old loo didn't have one and with the sink etc. running into the gulley they won't need one either.

Have fun.

 

[camerart]

Is it ok to connect 300mm from the manhole, with a 30degree bend, instead of cutting out for a straight run?

Also is there enough room to fit a handbasin into a room approx 3Ft wide, if the toilet was fitted slightly to one side?

View media item 94140

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Aaah, is sir being shabby and connecting sirs' new pipe to the old just before the manhole (rather than having to rebed the whole shooting match)?

300mm is just about OK- the closer the bend is to the manhole the better (purely for maintenance in case of blockages). If you can, test-fit the pipes and see how well you can rod through the bend.Or if you can get your hand through the bend from the manhole then that's a good sign.

As for the washbasin- you can get stupidly small pygmy's christening font type basins which are fine for compliance with regs but not a lot of use in the real world (most of them fire water at your legs while you try and wash your hands). They're annoyingly pricey as well. And alas you do need one in there because the door opens into the kitchen.

It becomes an aesthetics call for you really. Best bet is get yourself a tape measure, go and sit on your existing loo and see what having a basin in that 900mm width would feel like- I suspect the answer will be rubbish! Have a Google- there's loads of 'compact. basins out there.

 

[camerart]

It's good to have a laugh to start the day

Yes. sir is being a bit lazy, if he can get away with it. Actually, I measured the 300mm from the centre of the bend, so the bend will start much closer.

Just thought, I could put the basin on the other side where the washing machine drain goes, so I might be able to get a bigger one there, where I could christen larger tribes.

Off to sit in the loo!

C.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Glad to brighten someones' day. Small issue with putting the washbasin at that end is your proposed door- presumably you won't be having another door between that space and the kitchen so technically the washbasin is not in the same space as the loo (if you see what I mean) and thus fails the requirement (if a loo opens onto a kitchen it has to have a washbasin).

Enjoy your pondering on the throne

 

[camerart]

The other side, means inside the door, see image.

There is a chimney breast/wall between the kitchen and the the room where the washing machine is, with an opening. I contacted the building control, and asked if this was ok and they assured me it was.

C.


View media item 94203

 

[oldbutnotdead]

My mistake- I assumed the washing machine and sink were in the kitchen

And I found my tape measure as well, looks to me as if you'd get away with a 250mm depth basin in that position. Mind I'm skinny----- have you got something else in mind for the end of the coalhole opposite the loo (where the old loo was)- you could have a huge basin in there (or a shower!)

 

[camerart]

SHOWER!! How long do you want this thread to be?

I think I'll just leave it as space. I'm sure it won't take long to fill up.

This kind of thing looks ok for a basin: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Small-Compa...?ie=UTF8&qid=1431161297&sr=8-9&keywords=basin

Just have to put a note "Only skinny people" on the toilet door.

C.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Heh. Aye that basin'll do it, be prepared to get reamed by about £50 for a tap and waste kit though (single hole taps seem to be much more expensive than 2 separate taps.)