Fixing drop leaf table to plasterboard wall

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I'm fixing a drop leaf table to a plasterboard wall.

I've read other threads advising to find the studs and fix to a stud.
My wall is only 1.95m in length. You'd think there should be a stud? But I'm struggling to find one! It has the same echo all over.
I wonder if there's a sound frequency app I could use?

Anyway, if fix the table to plasterboard, I wonder if spring loaded toggle plugs would suffice?
 

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You could cut vertical slots in the plaster board and slide some 2x1 in behind the plasterboard to make your own studs to fix too , did this for a heavy wall mounted microwave shelf on plaster board walls.
Obviously need to make good the walls. Friend tried the toggle fixings on a table , first time the top was lowered it ripped off the wall .
The verticals should match the location of the hinge and supports.
 
If you're ok with drilling a couple of exploratory 1/4" holes then you can make a U more shape out of coat hanger wire. Thread one leg into the wall, sound absorbsion fibre may be an issue. Then as you rotate the leg on the outside, you should feel it touch the studs. The leg should tell you where the stud is.

They are normally 16/24" or 400/600
 
Both good ideas... Making own studs and using wire to find studs! Even though it could be a big job making the wall good again.

Re: making own studs... How did you fix them in place and stop lateral movement?
 
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whats on or at the top off the wall
does it wabble side to side if you push hard sideways??
 
My preferred way of locating either vertical or horizontal studs, is to use light.

I have a 1000 lumen torch and if I shine the torch across the surface of the wall you can see the [very] slight indentations caused by the plasterboard joints. Joints = Timber studs?

You can also use a desk lamp? or a standard lamp? just something that will cascade light so you can see the [slight] indentations where the plasterboard joints are.

If you are lucky?? you can see the filled nail or screw holes, a nail or filled screw hole = a timber stud.

Ken.
 
You might have paramount wall boards instead of studwork which might explain why you're struggling to find the studs. Gripit fixings are the strongest ones I've used so far.
 
...use light...
shine the torch across the surface of the wall you can see the [very] slight indentations caused by the plasterboard joints...
Ken.

I wouldn't have believed it but,
yes! I can see a very faint line under a torch!
80cm from door edge on one side and at the other side of the wall I see a faint line under torch at 100cm
(Now I feel like Indiana Jones when he used that staff in a tomb to find the arc!)

In answer to other question... There isn't much wobble, only slightly and it's a middle floor with attic bedroom above it.

Thanks all.
 
I wouldn't have believed it but,
yes! I can see a very faint line under a torch!
80cm from door edge on one side and at the other side of the wall I see a faint line under torch at 100cm
(Now I feel like Indiana Jones when he used that staff in a tomb to find the arc!)

In answer to other question... There isn't much wobble, only slightly and it's a middle floor with attic bedroom above it.


Thanks all.
so its a captive wall under perhaps a stair slope rather than an open unsupported wall top ??
 
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Both good ideas... Making own studs and using wire to find studs! Even though it could be a big job making the wall good again.

Re: making own studs... How did you fix them in place and stop lateral movement?
If you need to fit your own short studs it best if they touch the floor behind the board , a couple of screw thru surface into timber will keep it there until you fix table which will add further fixings .
 
so its a captive wall under perhaps a stair slope rather than an open unsupported wall top ??

sorry I'm not sure what a captive wall is? But it's not under stairs. It's a full length wall from the edge of house to a bedroom door. It separates a bedroom and a corridor.
 
yes that what i meant supported top and bottom within a structure rather than open and unsupported like a half height room divider wall for example
 
This might be bad form, but despite the risk of the wall coming down I'm going to try just anchor brollys. I've got the rawlplug tool too.

My stud is too close to a door so I won't be able to open it fully with the desk behind it. Although there is a stud at the other side of wall that I might be able to reach with a long screw.
This desk has a long horizontal piece and 2 verticals so should dissipate the load enough. (Hopefully)
P_20200821_082704_vHDR_Auto.jpg
 
whatever you use , be sure to gripfill it also, leave it 24 hours and you’ll never get it off.:LOL:
 

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