Floor installation advice for a confused beginner!

[amwright]

Hello all

I would like to install a hard wood floor in my living room which is a 22 square meter space, I have never tackled floor installation before and after reading a lot of information on the subject I am slightly confused as to what is the best way to approach it.

After removing the old carpets the original floor boards underneath are in reasonable condition and fairly flat. There are concrete sections where the original fireplaces were.

The house was built in the 1930's and has a bay window.

The floor I would like to install is 18mm thick and 120mm width (tongue & groove).

Im keen to give this a go and to do it correctly so any tips on the right way to approach it would be gratefully received!

I know a carpenter who has some previous experience with flooring who is willing to help me but for my own peace of mind I would like to go into this with a good understanding of the correct approach (or should I give up and go with click & fit engineered floor?)

How should I prepare the subfloor, and what is the best way to get the flooring down?

Cheers!

 

[WoodYouLike]

This might help you on your way
Solid Floors - what to note

since you're talking about 18 x 120mm floorboards you should especially read the bit about "the short end of the stick (board)"

You should also read this:
Preparing a subfloor (underfloor)

 

[amwright]

Thanks woodyoulike, really helpful!

The wood I'm looking at is from UK flooring direct and the board length is described as random lengths 400mm - 1500mm

Is there anything I can do to ensure I avoid this problem other than to go above budget?

Also I noticed they offer a "Peel & Stick underlay" which is supposedly a simple method of installation. Any thoughts on this as a suitable method? Could I apply the boards to this over a plywood subfloor?

Thanks once again!

 

[WoodYouLike]

Is there anything I can do to ensure I avoid this problem other than to go above budget?

Ask if they can guarantee that maximum 10 - 15% of the boards per pack, make sure it's per pack, is short lengths. I for one would be very interested in their answer.

Also I noticed they offer a "Peel & Stick underlay" which is supposedly a simple method of installation. Any thoughts on this as a suitable method?

Sounds like a copy-cat of the original Elastilon. To be honest, yes it is a good method (if you use a good quality self-adhesive underlayment) but rather tricky to get used to, especially if this is the first time you install a wooden floor.

If you plan to install the new boards in the same direction as the existing ones you have to overboard with ply. If you go perpendicular and your existing floorboards are in good quality and flat as you say then there is no need for this. Just make sure for which ever wood floor you go - there are come reasonable priced wood-engineered boards out (t)here - the boards are long (and/or wide) enough for you to install floating.

Another option would be to secret nail the floor of this company (but do try to get them to specify the "randomness" of their random lengths.

 

[amwright]

Woodyoulike

I have sent UK Flooring direct an email with the above question, I will post the results here.

Once again, cheers!

 

[amwright]

Just had a swift response from UK Flooring Direct which read:

"There is no way to guarantee the length in each board as the packs are pre packed and are completely random direct from the manufacturer. Their percentage is over the whole batch and not per pack"

I guess I will have to decide if I am to take the plunge!

 

[WoodYouLike]

Why does the answer not surprise me

I'm not saying the product is rubbish but it is a know fact that these floor types with these specifications for these low prices contain many - too many - short lengths.
(And if they would "consult" every client who bought this product they could easily find out the answer )

 

[stevethespreader]

wooden floor.

If you plan to install the new boards in the same direction as the existing ones you have to overboard with ply. If you go perpendicular and your existing floorboards are in good quality and flat as you say then there is no need for this.
quote] hi wooodyoulike, could you lay down the boards in the same direction as the origonal boards using the thick stiff 6mm underlay green boards from b&q instead of ply? would they sort the unevenness out? also would boards look right going across the short length of the room if you were to lay them that way? ive just tried laying engineered boards longways with cheap underlay, and the first row was bouncy, (you could see the end joints move) . Now i want to try again with the thicker underlay and thicker boards, btw the floorboards are not that bad and are reasonably straight just a couple of mil out here and there the room dimensions are 14ft x 10
funny thing is the floor used to have cheap laminate on it with cheap underlay running along the length of the existing boards and it was fine i only took it up because it was knackered
ps no intention of hijacking this thread it just relates to my questions thats all and answers given could benifit origonal poster as well cheers

 

[WoodYouLike]

Steve, could you use some . and , in your question please? Can't really make out what the questions are, but giving it a try:

those 6mm boards are not suitable to overboard with. If it's not that uneven and you need to go perpendicular, try 3mm hardboard sheets and then suitable 3mm underlayment.
Thicker boards normally don't have that much bounce or flex as thinner boards. You decide which direction you want to install your boards, it's not a rule set in stone but more a case of what looks best of that room in situ.

It's always better to use quality thinner underlayment (like the 3mm barrier products) than thicker spongy fibre boards 6 - 7mm.

 

[stevethespreader]

Steve, could you use some . and , in your question please? Can't really make out what the questions are, but giving it a try:

those 6mm boards are not suitable to overboard with. If it's not that uneven and you need to go perpendicular, try 3mm hardboard sheets and then suitable 3mm underlayment.
Thicker boards normally don't have that much bounce or flex as thinner boards. You decide which direction you want to install your boards, it's not a rule set in stone but more a case of what looks best of that room in situ.

It's always better to use quality thinner underlayment (like the 3mm barrier products) than thicker spongy fibre boards 6 - 7mm.

thanks for the reply ,i have edited the post so it makes more sense, basicly i wouldlike to have the new boards running the same way as the old floor boards, longways running towards the window ,and i am thinking if i lay them crossways across the window it will not look good, but it will be flatter. Can you still get a good effect if you lay them crossways? the boards im thinking of getting are from howdens they are 7ft long (approx)
with the room being 14ftx10ft, thanks again

 

[WoodYouLike]

How thick are the boards? Do you expect any flex in the boards themselves and are the existing floorboards level?

If the existing boards are level and the new boards thick/rigid enough, use 3mm hardboard to lay over existing boards. Then use 3mm foam underlayment (good quality) and install boards perpendicular to the existing boards.

Hope this helps

 

[stevethespreader]

How thick are the boards? Do you expect any flex in the boards themselves and are the existing floorboards level?

If the existing boards are level and the new boards thick/rigid enough, use 3mm hardboard to lay over existing boards. Then use 3mm foam underlayment (good quality) and install boards perpendicular to the existing boards.

Hope this helps

hi wyl the boards are going to be 15mm thick and the existing fb are reasonably straight , i take it the hardboard will have to be tacked ,is there a recomended space between fixing points? also i have a concrete part where the fireplace used to be what shall i use to fix the hardboard there? grip fill? one last question in your pro oppinion will the boards look odd going crossways, they will be going across the window, and as you walk in running from the door thanks

 

[WoodYouLike]

Hardboard can be stapled - tacked every 25cm (whole sheet not just the edges, sure you knew this). Leave a gap between the boards too.
Gripfill would be fine if the concrete area is small

As for which direction, try it out "dry" and see what looks best in your opinion.

 

[stevethespreader]

Hardboard can be stapled - tacked every 25cm (whole sheet not just the edges, sure you knew this). Leave a gap between the boards too.
Gripfill would be fine if the concrete area is small

As for which direction, try it out "dry" and see what looks best in your opinion.

thanks m8 very helpful i assume gaps are for expansion is 5 mm sufficient ?

 

[WoodYouLike]

Nope, minimum 10mm all around the perimeter of the floor

Gaps! They are there for a very good reason!