floor sealant, which one? Also other questions!

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Morning peeps,

I am fast approaching the time when i will start to lay my reclaimed solid maple floor. I am going against advice already received on this forum(sorry bout that) and i am going to lay the flooring on top of 22mm caberfloor. I have decided to secret nail and glue the maple into place. Secret nailing side of things i have sussed but can anyone recommend a good adhesive to paint onto the floor before i start laying and nailing(i was thinking of PVA glue but i doubt this will be particularly strong). I am going with the advice to leave a 10mm expansion gap around the edge of the flooring.
I have ran the maple flooring through a thicknesser machine as a first clean up, i also intend hiring a belt sander and a edging sander to finish flooring once laid. The flooring has been stored in the house for 3 months so i don't expect to see any more shrinkage. Can anyone recommend me a good lacquer to use, i am looking for a high traffic seal that will dry to a silk matt finish and in no way colour the wood/grain. Doesn't have to be water based as i have plenty of ventilation, just looking for the best ones on the market to compliment the phenomenal look and grain pattern of the timber.

Lastly, once i have finished sanding and the hoovering/sweeping up process in preperation to apply the lacquer is there a product i should use to clean up the very last of the dust/particles. I am trying for the best finish i can so i don't mind spending a bit more time and money to get the best possible finish. Any other advice on particular brushes to use to apply the lacquer etc much appreciated. P.S the flooring is 90mm wide by 19mm thick and is in varying lengths from 2 foot through to 15 foot, the majority are in the 4 to 8 foot range.

Anyone any opinion or used this product? Thinking of applying it with a spray gun.

http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/j/JUN625/
 
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Hi there
Work through the grades on your belt (try and find a continuous belt type www.floorsander2u.co.uk ) and edge machine finishing on a 120 grit, and if you are after a very good final finish I would always blend all the marks together with a buffer machine on a slow speed, probably using a 100 grit and then a used 120 or a new 150 grit sanding screen.
As for a finish to use, solvent will smell for days to come and the water based products are just as good now. I would use Bona Traffic silkmatt with a primer, just as strong without the smell. http://www.woodenflooringsales.com/bonakemifloorlacquers/
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A wooden floor that's going to be varnished or lacquered needs a last sanding of 150 grit.
Ending with 120 will leave it too 'open' and you might get a 'ribbled' (like the skin of an orange) effect with the lacquer.
 
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Thanks for the replies, I had a look at the Bona products and they look ok, nonyellowing and a fast recoat time. Has anyone tried applying the product with a spray gun? I will make 150 grit my finishing grade of sandpaper. Off to look at machines now as i did not realise there was a buffer machine.
 
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