Floor tile adhesive

[diytrainee]

Guys

Im going to lay slate tiles onto a WBP ply floor in my bathroom. Will this tile adhesive be OK for hte job. it doesnt mention slate but cant really see any that do.

http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/tiles/...ra-Flex-Floor-and-Wall-Adhesive-Grey-11187625


Thanks for your advice.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

It is suitable for your application although some will not recommend uni-bond and prefer a better adhesive such as BAL Rapidset
But I have used this product without a problem.

 

[diytrainee]

£40 per pack or the bal seems rather expensive when you need more than 1 pack.

Glad to hear you've used the unibond in the past, sucessfully.

 

[Richard C]

I would advise you forget that & go buy some decent trade tile adhesive from a proper trade tile outlet; their powder adhesive is better than the tub mix but you would be ill advised to risk it. You can get BAL Rapidset Flexy cheaper than that even at Topps if you try hard enough or use one of the other reputable trade brands, Webber, Mapei (but not the stuff in B&Q), Ardex etc. You really get what you pay for with tiling products, go “cheapskate” on addy/grout & you may live to regret it. Do a Forum search & wider Google search for more info, it’s well documented; be wise & heed the warning!

More importantly, is this a ply overboard or a replacement floor? What thickness WBP have you used? How have you fixed it? Have you sealed the back & edges? Are these natural slate tiles?

Tiling isn’t rocket science but there are still many things that can catch you out, particularly with a suspended timber floor. I would advise you read the Tiling Sticky & Forum Archive posts before buying materials or going any further or it could prevent you making disastrous & potentially expensive mistakes. It’s important to use only quality trade tilling materials of the correct type for your tiles & tile base; cheapo own brand & DIY stuff is mostly crap.

 

[tpt]

£40?!!

you want something like this http://www.tradepricetiles.co.uk/ad...fastset-flexible-tile-adhesive-grey-20kg.html

should be no dearer that the unibond c**p. where are you located? should be a local supplier who can pass this your way

 

[diytrainee]

I would advise you forget that & go buy some decent trade tile adhesive from a proper trade tile outlet; their powder adhesive is better than the tub mix but you would be ill advised to risk it. You can get BAL Rapidset Flexy cheaper than that even at Topps if you try hard enough or use one of the other reputable trade brands, Webber, Mapei (but not the stuff in B&Q), Ardex etc. You really get what you pay for with tiling products, go “cheapskate” on addy/grout & you may live to regret it. Do a Forum search & wider Google search for more info, it’s well documented; be wise & heed the warning!

More importantly, is this a ply overboard or a replacement floor? What thickness WBP have you used? How have you fixed it? Have you sealed the back & edges? Are these natural slate tiles?

Tiling isn’t rocket science but there are still many things that can catch you out, particularly with a suspended timber floor. I would advise you read the Tiling Sticky & Forum Archive posts before buying materials or going any further or it could prevent you making disastrous & potentially expensive mistakes. It’s important to use only quality trade tilling materials of the correct type for your tiles & tile base; cheapo own brand & DIY stuff is mostly crap.

Thanks Richard. I've only just seen your post.

I've since bought the Dunlop fast set flexi along with flex grout in grey. I also bought the Dunlop primer it suggested.

The bathroom is over boarded with 12mm wbp ply however I haven't sealed the back. Why would you do this when you are sealing the top? Its screwed down at 300 centres. How would you seal the edges?

 

[diytrainee]

£40?!!

you want something like this http://www.tradepricetiles.co.uk/ad...fastset-flexible-tile-adhesive-grey-20kg.html

should be no dearer that the unibond c**p. where are you located? should be a local supplier who can pass this your way

\

Thanks TPT. Would you recommend this over the dunlop range?

 

[Richard C]

I've since bought the Dunlop fast set flexi along with flex grout in grey.

Dunlop is not one I've used but I know they came under the “BAL” umbrella few years ago.

I also bought the Dunlop primer it suggested.

I checked & Dunlop recommend you use their primer over ply floors. It’s always best to follow the manufacturer’s instructions but, interestingly, BAL & other powder adhesive manufacturers recommend you don’t prime as it can affect tile adhesion I use BAL & don't prime.

The bathroom is over boarded with 12mm wbp ply

What type of floor is the original? The BS & adhesive manufacturer’s recommendation for over boarding is minimum 15mm but 12mm is usually sufficient in most cases in light load/use area such as bath/shower rooms but it depends on your original floor boards (chip is best replaced with 18-25mm WBP) & joist size/pitch/span.

however I haven't sealed the back. Why would you do this when you are sealing the top?

The back & edges should be sealed with acrylic primer to prevent any moisture ingress. Ply is wood & wood is not dimensionally stable when exposed to moisture; if moisture gets in, the ply can curl & there go your tiles. You should not seal the top (tile) surface unless tanking & that’s only necessary in a wet room; see also above comment on priming.

Its screwed down at 300 centres

I fix both ply overboard & new floors at 150-200mm centres; personally I would advise you stick some more screws into it. You should also fix through into the joists (check for pipes & cables) rather than just into the top of the original flooring. It’s also important you butt any board joints over the centre line of a joist so they are fully supported; avoid board joints in the centre of the room.

How would you seal the edges?

Before you lay the board.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Dunlop is not one I've used but I know they came under the “BAL” umbrella few years ago.

I believe they still do.
But still a cheap purer quality adhesive

 

[diytrainee]

however I haven't sealed the back. Why would you do this when you are sealing the top?

The back & edges should be sealed with acrylic primer to prevent any moisture ingress. Ply is wood & wood is not dimensionally stable when exposed to moisture; if moisture gets in, the ply can curl & there go your tiles. You should not seal the top (tile) surface unless tanking & that’s only necessary in a wet room; see also above comment on priming.

The primer i bought does not mentioned sealing the back????? only the top.

 

[Richard C]

The primer i bought does not mentioned sealing the back????? only the top.

So your point is? One tile adhesive manufacturer recommends using PVA as a tile primer (to give you a clue they also make the stuff) but I wouldn’t recommend you do that either; or, as I said earlier, use their tile adhesive!

Dunlop doesn’t mention sealing the ply back & edges but BAL & many others do; BAL also recommend not to prime a ply tile base when using powder addy but Dunlop do; personally I don’t & wouldn’t prime. Sealing the back/edges of the ply is recognised good practice & an additional safeguard against tile failure due to the ply warping if moisture gets into the back or edges. Too late if you’ve already laid the floor, just go with what you have but remember for next time.

 

[diytrainee]

just wanted to say thank you for the people that helped. Tiles are down, look great and im proud as punch !