I know this has been asked before - and I've read some of the answers which seem to come down to :
* Make sure boards have been kiln dried & acclimatise for at least a couple of weeks.
* Little difference between redwood and whitewood pine.
* T&G red/whitewood boards -> ply -> OSB or chipboard in reducing cost order.
So my specific situation :
Circa 1940s ex-council house. We have a bedroom and bathroom in need of some flooring work.
In the past, a corner of the bedroom has been stolen to make a shower - we're getting rid of this. Also in the past, some of the floor (most of bathroom) has been replaced (18mm flooring chipboard) which is thinner than the original floorboards which (from memory) are about 22mm. Some of the flooring is rotten - partly due to leaks with the shower, partly I think predates the shower.
The wall between bathroom and bedroom is (assuming it's like our last house which was circa 1960s in the same development) some form of lightweight block made from a black grit (ash ?), and runs parallel to the joists sat on the boards. So there's a small step running across the bedroom due to the difference in thickness between old boards and new chipboard in bathroom.
In places, the original boards have been butchered, as have the battens supporting them (especially by the ******* who fitted the central heating) - we have concrete joists, so only a batten on top to fix to, and limited options for services crossing them. In places, the pipes support the boards
Also, in adding an extension, the previous owner did some "interesting" things - one of which being a section of floor between landing and new lounge where one side is only supported by the T&G of the chipboard he's used.
My wife has mobility problems which are getting worse, and she already struggles getting into the existing shower - there's a step up of around 8" due to the need to get the drain away from under the shower tray.
So the plan is to take out the bath which is only used occasionally by the grand kids, and create a walk in shower across the end of the bathroom (about 1.7m wide.) I don't think we'll be able to get a completely level entry, but as long as it's low enough we can manage with a small step. Either that or we'll have to use a pumped waste.
Rip out the old shower (which has had various leaks), and block up the gap in the wall - thus returning the bedroom back to it's original (and more practical) size.
Fix all the flooring problems. In reality, my assumption is it'll be easier to rip it all out and start again. Total of around 18m².
New coverings will be carpet.
I've ruled out large format boards like the 2400x600 T&G panels. It dives me nuts that I can't get under the floors and there's lots of things need sorting - some I've done, much I know I'll want to be doing in the future (the electrics need a lot of modernising.) If I fit large panels, I know they'll end up with acne from all the access holes needed (I've already got through two 5-packs of cover plates for "not a lot" of fixes), not to mention trying to work like a gynaecologist ! I was brought up with T&G and am used to being able to pull up a board or 3 as needed - and in any case I'll be screwing them down, and pre-cutting some of them (cut the bottom flange of the groove off to allow that board to be lifted) where I expect to need them up.
Q: Am I nuts for these choices ?
Q: Would a good quality ply, and rip the sheets into wide planks (I have friends with the gear to do straight cuts
) be a viable alternative to T&G ?
Q: Given the plan to have a walk in shower - does that alter the recommendations for material ?
Q: Probably one for the plumbers, use a pre-formed tray, or would it be practical to form a tray in-situ (and thus exactly match the dimensions of the room) ?
Q: Any tips for supporting the wall while I take the floor out from under it ? The plans is to work in strips - but if I replace the battens, that'll mean getting a wider area up so as not to end up with a lot of short battens.
Q: Any recommendations for a good timber merchant in South Cumbria ? I know we've got the usual expensive sheds, and some smaller outfits, but I've never bought this quantity of timber before - so don't really know who's good to go to for it (decent quality, without breaking the bank.)
Oh yes, I'm thinking that if I'm having the whole floor up, some UFH pipework might be an idea - but that's not too important given it's heated rooms below.
* Make sure boards have been kiln dried & acclimatise for at least a couple of weeks.
* Little difference between redwood and whitewood pine.
* T&G red/whitewood boards -> ply -> OSB or chipboard in reducing cost order.
So my specific situation :
Circa 1940s ex-council house. We have a bedroom and bathroom in need of some flooring work.
In the past, a corner of the bedroom has been stolen to make a shower - we're getting rid of this. Also in the past, some of the floor (most of bathroom) has been replaced (18mm flooring chipboard) which is thinner than the original floorboards which (from memory) are about 22mm. Some of the flooring is rotten - partly due to leaks with the shower, partly I think predates the shower.
The wall between bathroom and bedroom is (assuming it's like our last house which was circa 1960s in the same development) some form of lightweight block made from a black grit (ash ?), and runs parallel to the joists sat on the boards. So there's a small step running across the bedroom due to the difference in thickness between old boards and new chipboard in bathroom.
In places, the original boards have been butchered, as have the battens supporting them (especially by the ******* who fitted the central heating) - we have concrete joists, so only a batten on top to fix to, and limited options for services crossing them. In places, the pipes support the boards
Also, in adding an extension, the previous owner did some "interesting" things - one of which being a section of floor between landing and new lounge where one side is only supported by the T&G of the chipboard he's used.My wife has mobility problems which are getting worse, and she already struggles getting into the existing shower - there's a step up of around 8" due to the need to get the drain away from under the shower tray.
So the plan is to take out the bath which is only used occasionally by the grand kids, and create a walk in shower across the end of the bathroom (about 1.7m wide.) I don't think we'll be able to get a completely level entry, but as long as it's low enough we can manage with a small step. Either that or we'll have to use a pumped waste.
Rip out the old shower (which has had various leaks), and block up the gap in the wall - thus returning the bedroom back to it's original (and more practical) size.
Fix all the flooring problems. In reality, my assumption is it'll be easier to rip it all out and start again. Total of around 18m².
New coverings will be carpet.
I've ruled out large format boards like the 2400x600 T&G panels. It dives me nuts that I can't get under the floors and there's lots of things need sorting - some I've done, much I know I'll want to be doing in the future (the electrics need a lot of modernising.) If I fit large panels, I know they'll end up with acne from all the access holes needed (I've already got through two 5-packs of cover plates for "not a lot" of fixes), not to mention trying to work like a gynaecologist ! I was brought up with T&G and am used to being able to pull up a board or 3 as needed - and in any case I'll be screwing them down, and pre-cutting some of them (cut the bottom flange of the groove off to allow that board to be lifted) where I expect to need them up.
Q: Am I nuts for these choices ?
Q: Would a good quality ply, and rip the sheets into wide planks (I have friends with the gear to do straight cuts
) be a viable alternative to T&G ?Q: Given the plan to have a walk in shower - does that alter the recommendations for material ?
Q: Probably one for the plumbers, use a pre-formed tray, or would it be practical to form a tray in-situ (and thus exactly match the dimensions of the room) ?
Q: Any tips for supporting the wall while I take the floor out from under it ? The plans is to work in strips - but if I replace the battens, that'll mean getting a wider area up so as not to end up with a lot of short battens.
Q: Any recommendations for a good timber merchant in South Cumbria ? I know we've got the usual expensive sheds, and some smaller outfits, but I've never bought this quantity of timber before - so don't really know who's good to go to for it (decent quality, without breaking the bank.)
Oh yes, I'm thinking that if I'm having the whole floor up, some UFH pipework might be an idea - but that's not too important given it's heated rooms below.
