Flooring gaps - help!

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19 Jun 2014
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Location
Tyne and Wear
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United Kingdom
Hi folks,

Anyone got any good ideas for filling height differences in timber/ply flooring?

My old kitchen floorboards were beyond redemption so I've replaced them with 25mm marine ply sheets. The exposed joists had to be levelled too as they were all over the shop.

All good for the most part, but I left a few single floorboards in where they ran under stud walls or supported stuff. Problem is, these board still rise and fall between the dodgy old joists - from around 10mm to flush with the ply.

The plan was to fill it with some kind of self-levelling compound before installing floating laminate, but people have told me that's not a great idea on timber (there's a bit of movement and a lot of gaps to fill).

Does anyone have any clever ideas how I can pack this gap and get it level with the ply?

I *think* I've included a piccy of the problem.

Thanks all for any help!

Tegs
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You could use a fibre reinforced screed like

level flex
F ball 700
Mapei renovation

Prime the wood then screed it level with the ply.
 
confused here ;)

if the boards share the same timbers they must match up unless the surface is unclean ??
are you sure they haven't pushed out when screwing
in other words undo the screws on the high points
stand on/weight down the area around the screw and re-tighten ;)
 
That last (T&G?) floorboard could have come up leaving you with a sliver of board (15 - 20mm) tight to the partition. The floorboard(s) could have been chopped off flush with the partition.

Unless the rad is sitting on the flooring - no brackets? And the valve has been incorrectly piped in, maybe thats why you didn't want to move the rad.

I dont understand how you could have levelled the joists if 10mm discrepancies are showing? Joists have to be levelled two ways and i doubt that your joists are levelled two ways. Of course, we dont have a view of the overall kitchen joists footprint.

Essentially, you have to have a level sub-floor ref. base units, doors and finished coverings eg. tile or whatever.
 
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Hi Folks,

Cheers for the feedback.

Yeah, the boards are wonky as hell and run out - the stud wall and door frame behind the photo actually sit on it. And although you can't see it, the far door frame is also attached to it. The biggest chew however is that a dwarf walls run right underneath with services sneaking through gaps between joists - noggins would be a pain. It just seemed easier to leave the board in place and level to the ply later on. Maybe not the best idea in hindsight...

I've only levelled the joists under the new ply - I couldn't get the floorboard in the piccy up to sort that so it still rises and falls where it used to.

I suppose the SLC approach is the easiest solution at this stage. Unless anyone has any better ideas... :)

tegs
 

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