Ford Fiesta 1.1 1993 Carb Starting Problems

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Hi,

Its a 1.1 ford feista 93, carb model. Previously over the last couple of months it was stalling but would start fine.

Now its failing to start most of the time unless i do a trick I read about which is,

1. pull the number 20 fuse out for the INJ,
2. then start the car the engine catches then dies
3. then i start the engine again but as the engine catches I push fuse in and bingo its up and running. Please note it doesn't work if I put the fuse back in after step 2 and start it, I have to push it in as it starts for it to work.

This did the trick for a good few times now Im finding it will kangaroo for a bit after then sort itself out. i've googled the problem and there seems to be a lot of people with same problem on the same model year upto 93,94, alot detail the trick I used but nothing says what the problem is, does anyone know ? And can it be a DIY fix ? The car is worth peanuts but is a elderly relatives car so is low miles and immaculate condition, seems a shame to scrap it :confused:
 
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you say you pull the fuse out marked inj,but its a carbed model,do you know exactly which circuit this fuse controls?
 
Its more likely to be a single point injection, which looks like a carb
 
I have a similar intermittent problem with a 1995 1.1 fiesta but only when it is REALLY cold. For me the engine will start 1st time but will then cut-out before the engine has warmed up. Then it is difficult to restart unless you remove the fuse. (Actually I usually find flooring the accelerator and turning it over will eventually do the trick) This is because the engine has flooded with too much fuel. In my case I suspect it could be the coolant temperature sensor/sendor not giving a correct reading which results in the fuel/air ratio being too rich. I have not tried replacing it even though it is cheap because I am not totally sure it is the cause and I can live with the fault. I suspect this might be why the tip of my exhaust always gets very burnt/black in cold weather.

Maybe you have another reason for difficult starting which causes flooding which is helped by doing the fuse thing?!?
 
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Temp sender would be the first place i'd look on that one.
If theyre the same as the Ka's, theyre a pig to get to............ had to chop a 19mm spanner in half to get to it!
 
It sounds like you've got the 1.1 fuel injection model (engine type CFI - engine code G6A). Fuse No:20 relates to the HEGO (Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen) sensor. This sensor fits into the exhaust train and sends info, regarding the levels of oxygen in the exhaust, back to the engine management system which changes the fuel mixture as a result. Almost any ignition/fuel malfunction as well as the sensor itself malfunctioning can cause mixture variations and hence starting/running problems.
So I would first check the easy things e.g. plugs, air filter cleanliness, air leaks and the like. Then if all else fails, renew the sensor. It looks like a plug screwed into the manifold casting just in front of where the exhaust pipe fits. Straight-forward enough if you're multi-jointed !
 
Coniferman said:
I suspect this might be why the tip of my exhaust always gets very burnt/black in cold weather.

?!?

My rela's Feista is the same ie black tip on exhaust its only just appeared, thanks for everyones help, will check what was suggested before I take it to garage. The fuse in and out trick now only works occassionly :cry: . I noticed when I have the fuse in I can hear a werrring sound coming from the back left, if I take the fuse out I cant hear it what is that ?, I never noticed the werring sound until a couple of weeks a go after I took it to get it MOT'd, they did replace a wheel bearing on the rear left wheel same area.

Also Ive read on the web about the "Potentiometer - this is attached to the carb and affect the fuel metering - it maybe that it just wants re-adjusting on a Gas Analyser " - should any garage be able to do this ?

Spoke to one so called 'Fiesta Speacilest' and he said 'replace the carb' but it isnt a carb model is it if its a a single point inj ?
 
The buzzing from the back wheel area will be the electric fuel pump, which would sugest a single point injection engine.

Fuel pump relay could be worth swapping for the price of them, and a new filter won't hurt.
 
^neo^ said:
The buzzing from the back wheel area will be the electric fuel pump, which would sugest a single point injection engine.

Fuel pump relay could be worth swapping for the price of them, and a new filter won't hurt.

Is replacing the fuel filter a DIY job, havent got my haynes manual to hand at mo ?

Cheers mate
 
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