Ford KA brake pads.

[motorbiking]

Youngest has bought a Ford KA to learn to drive on. The brakes are a little squeaky. I was going to have the front wheels off and check the pads with him.

I’ve done brake pads on other cars before.

Anything difficult about the KA. I’m assuming it’s open brake fluid tank, retaining pin out, bottom calliper bolt off, top loose bleed valve open, push pads back, swap, revers and top up. ?

 

[robinbanks]

When I’m renewing pads I open the bleed on the caliper before I push the pads in but not the reservoir; pump all the old fluid out of the bleed screw and discard it rather than pump a load of manky fluid back up the system.
I use a G clamp to gently squeeze the pad back in to the caliper and keep it held in to prevent piston movement from drawing air in through the bleed nipple

 

[Mottie]

Anything difficult about the KA. I’m assuming it’s open brake fluid tank, retaining pin out, bottom calliper bolt off, top loose bleed valve open, push pads back, swap, revers and top up. ?

Basically, yeah but I never bother undoing the bleed nipple. I usually use a very large set of water pump pliers to push the piston back. Make sure the calliper slide is not seized. If there’s a small lip on the discs, I just take the edges of the pad off with a file.

 

[robinbanks]

You just squeeze all the fluid back into the system? Oof; the stuff sitting behind the pistons has the hardest life; I’d sooner get rid of it

Depending on how fast you go through brake pads, if you dump it instead, you extend the time between system fluid changes, or possibly obviate the process all together

 

[Mottie]

You just squeeze all the fluid back into the system? Oof; the stuff sitting behind the pistons has the hardest life; I’d sooner get rid of it

Depending on how fast you go through brake pads, if you dump it instead, you extend the time between system fluid changes, or possibly obviate the process all together

I've never replaced brake fluid iunless I’m bleeding the brakes after changing a component or the fluid is showing excess moisture. Moisture content is checked at the reservoir where it is most likely to be absorbed into the system. I’ve worked in several different main dealers in my working life and never had a car have its brake fluid changed as a set schedule. Nowdays they recommend every two years or so, don't they? Brake fluid has only improved over the years and personally I think, like regular servicing of air conditioning systems, it’s just a money spinner for main dealers. I'm too old skool!

 

[Avocet]

I've never replaced brake fluid iunless I’m bleeding the brakes after changing a component or the fluid is showing excess moisture. Moisture content is checked at the reservoir where it is most likely to be absorbed into the system. I’ve worked in several different main dealers in my working life and never had a car have its brake fluid changed as a set schedule. Nowdays they recommend every two years or so, don't they? Brake fluid has only improved over the years and personally I think, like regular servicing of air conditioning systems, it’s just a money spinner for main dealers. I'm too old skool!

I think most of the water in brake fluid comes in through the flexi hoses and past the caliper piston seals? Certainly, I've always found it to be way dirtier in a caliper than in the reservoir.

Around 2003 (I think) the regulations on end-of-life vehicles came in and the use of certain materials in new car was banned (or in the case of lead, reduced). One of them was hexavalent chromium. It's very hard to say, objectively, but I think older caliper pistons used to stick less before that was banned.

 

[motorbiking]

Do you guys advise copper grease on the back of the pad, to keep the pistons from sticking?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Do you guys advise copper grease on the back of the pad, to keep the pistons from sticking?

I smear some red brake grease, around the piston lip/under the piston dust seal. I also smear some copper grease on the back of the pad, plus where the alloy wheel makes contact with the hub. The latter trick, helps prevent the wheel 'welding' itself to the hub.

 

[Mottie]

Do you guys advise copper grease on the back of the pad, to keep the pistons from sticking?

They won’t stick to the piston but make sure the callipers where the edges of the pads contact them are free of corrosion and lightly lubricated to stop the pads sticking.

 

[Avocet]

Do you guys advise copper grease on the back of the pad, to keep the pistons from sticking?

As Mottie said, it doesn't stop anything sticking. it MIGHT help to reduce brake squeal by helping make good contact between the end of the piston and the pad backplate. Only put a bit on, as you don't want it melting and contaminating the friction surfaces.