Frost Stat wiring

Does it matter which way round the wires go?

As it can not be ascertained that the rest of the wiring is by the book, you have to conclude that it is not safe to connect the wires without knowing which is which and where they go.

If you are not able to establish which wire is which, it shows you are not sufficiently competent to work on 230V which makes it unsafe, as well as illegal.
 
Hi OP,
This is getting complicated and argumentative!

Your description is a bit lacking; originally you mentioned disconnecting the frost stat-- within that, just reversing the two wires across the internal switch would not be a problem (although always preferable to stick to the intended instructions) but it seems that is not what you meant. You say the disconnection is at a switch.When you refer to a switch do you actually mean a programmer/timer unit? If so, there are a multitude of internal possibilities and you will definately need the wiring diagram or somebody who knows the model. (If it is just a switch, with just an in/out wire across it the connections across it would also not matter, BUT I do not understand or recognise what switch would be in place.)

Hi,
Next to the boiler, a Ideal Classic RS250 Balanced flue is what I can only describe as a light switch Wire A goes to the boiler. Wire B goes to the Frost Stet and the other wires C go into the ceiling to the Airing cupboard I assume.
If the wires from B are switched, will it make a difference to the running of the boiler. Assuming that it has been working safely for 10 years will swapping them over have any adverse result.. If it will what could it be?

Could it blow a fuse?
Go on fire?
Or could it override the room stat and the heating stay on even when the room stat and the wall timer are switched off?

Hope this is a bit more info to go on, many thanks
 
Hi OP,
This is getting complicated and argumentative!

Your description is a bit lacking; originally you mentioned disconnecting the frost stat-- within that, just reversing the two wires across the internal switch would not be a problem (although always preferable to stick to the intended instructions) but it seems that is not what you meant. You say the disconnection is at a switch.When you refer to a switch do you actually mean a programmer/timer unit? If so, there are a multitude of internal possibilities and you will definately need the wiring diagram or somebody who knows the model. (If it is just a switch, with just an in/out wire across it the connections across it would also not matter, BUT I do not understand or recognise what switch would be in place.)

Hi,
Next to the boiler, a Ideal Classic RS250 Balanced flue is what I can only describe as a light switch Wire A goes to the boiler. Wire B goes to the Frost Stet and the other wires C go into the ceiling to the Airing cupboard I assume.
If the wires from B are switched, will it make a difference to the running of the boiler. Assuming that it has been working safely for 10 years will swapping them over have any adverse result.. If it will what could it be?

Could it blow a fuse?
Go on fire?
Or could it override the room stat and the heating stay on even when the room stat and the wall timer are switched off?

Hope this is a bit more info to go on, many thanks

Ok Last one on this before I swap the wires. If the wires from the frost stat have been swapped will it:

A. blow up?
B. Blow a fuse
C. Override the room stat and keep the radiators hot
D. Have no effect what so ever
 
Very interesting!
Did you disconnect the frost stat wire (B) within that switch box or at the frost stat?

If it was at the frost stat end, and if the set up was OK previously, it will not matter which way round the frost stat blue brown are connected within the stat.
Otherwise, if you have disconnected the wires within that switch box, and reconnected them (as in the current photo) , I would not comment without testing the circuit layout.
 
Very interesting!
Did you disconnect the frost stat wire (B) within that switch box or at the frost stat?

If it was at the frost stat end, and if the set up was OK previously, it will not matter which way round the frost stat blue brown are connected within the stat.
Otherwise, if you have disconnected the wires within that switch box, and reconnected them (as in the current photo) , I would not comment without testing the circuit layout.

Hiya Mate,
I disconnected the wires from the switch end and the wires went back into the connection points they came out of and I'm pretty sure they went back in the way they came out. But when the heating was on later and was off at the timer and at the room stat it led me to question my self. I do take on what the monkey boy says about just because it was working before doesn't mean it was working properly as I assume the reason the heating was overriding the room stat was because the frost stat was kicking in. Another reason to ask the questions....

So is it ok to assume that if I can swap the wires around in the stat end then they could be swapped at the switch knowing that they went back to the terminals they came out of.

What if I just disconnect the frost stat? The boiler is in the garage. What will this do?
 
E.


And Yo monkey boy

if you cant be constructive then keep shelling your peanuts. Comments and feedback from people who have been through extensive training and have a valuable knowledge base are worth gold for people like me who do not have the depth understanding but have the power to reason and apply common sense. We find these forums a great help.

Remember with out people like me, people like you would not have a forum like this, you would have facebook...........
 
If you are absolutely confident that you know which two terminals within that switch are the ones from which you removed the two wires to the thermostat, then replacing just those the "other way round" will not have any further detrimental effect.

(Any other replacement errors-- its impossible to cover all combinations)

Disconnecting the frost stat would eliminate that aspect and is a logical step. (Bit obvious, but is it set OK and working?)
Boiler in garage needs frost stat for winter.
(If the heating programmer is off, or the room stat is turned right down, then you have got a supply problem to system if it still comes on when the garage temp is above the frost stat cut in temp)
 
If you are absolutely confident that you know which two terminals within that switch are the ones from which you removed the two wires to the thermostat, then replacing just those the "other way round" will not have any further detrimental effect.

(Any other replacement errors-- its impossible to cover all combinations)

Disconnecting the frost stat would eliminate that aspect and is a logical step. (Bit obvious, but is it set OK and working?)
Boiler in garage needs frost stat for winter.
(If the heating programmer is off, or the room stat is turned right down, then you have got a supply problem to system if it still comes on when the garage temp is above the frost stat cut in temp)

Cheers for that. yes 100% that wires went back into terminals, had this back from Honeywell:
Unfortunately I cannot go by colours as anything could have been used.
Terminal 1 should be a permanent Live and Terminal 3 should have a
switch live wire in.
(Monkey Nut Man, would it have been to hard to give a answer like this???)

This is as is and the frost stat is turned down to 3deg and all seems good.
 
if you cant be constructive then keep shelling your peanuts.

I am constructive. Your boiler/frost stat is not wired as it should be.
A standard froststat is a phase switch, and therefore should have no blue or black wire leading to it.
At the very least, that means the wrong cable has been used. There are stats like horstmann and I think some draytons that actually do need 230V supplied to them to work, and reversing polarity does not go down well with some boilers/controls.

Comments and feedback from people who have been through extensive training and have a valuable knowledge base are worth gold for people like me...

I am what you probably would call "corgi qualified" as well as "NIC qualified"


who do not have the depth understanding but have the power to reason and apply common sense.


Disconnecting mains power wires without looking where they actually went individually, is not what I would call common sense.
Trying to reconnect them without knowing how to test things to make sure that it is safe, is not very sensible either.



Remember with out people like me, people like you would not have a forum like this, you would have facebook...........

The section known as the combustion chamber is not even accessible for people like you, and........ a lot more interesting.
 
if you cant be constructive then keep shelling your peanuts.

I am constructive. Your boiler/frost stat is not wired as it should be.
A standard froststat is a phase switch, and therefore should have no blue or black wire leading to it.
At the very least, that means the wrong cable has been used. There are stats like horstmann and I think some draytons that actually do need 230V supplied to them to work, and reversing polarity does not go down well with some boilers/controls.

Comments and feedback from people who have been through extensive training and have a valuable knowledge base are worth gold for people like me...

I am what you probably would call "corgi qualified" as well as "NIC qualified"


who do not have the depth understanding but have the power to reason and apply common sense.


Disconnecting mains power wires without looking where they actually went individually, is not what I would call common sense.
Trying to reconnect them without knowing how to test things to make sure that it is safe, is not very sensible either.



Remember with out people like me, people like you would not have a forum like this, you would have facebook...........

The section known as the combustion chamber is not even accessible for people like you, and........ a lot more interesting.

you lost me at this one??
Thanks any way

G
 

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