1. Visiting from the US? Why not try DIYnot.US instead? Click here to continue to DIYnot.US.
    Dismiss Notice

Galaxy Flex 50 installation

Discussion in 'Alarms, CCTV & Telephones' started by JonM63, 8 Mar 2021.

  1. JonM63

    JonM63

    Joined:
    17 Feb 2020
    Messages:
    32
    Thanks Received:
    1
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Hi, I'm installing a Flex 50 panel to replace my old Galaxy 16+.
    All the peripherals are unchanged for the time being; the only change is the panel.

    When testing the outputs, I noticed that the Exit / Entry horn (which I've wired into Output 3) emits a high pitched siren tone, rather than the very loud horn sound when used with the 16+ (the volume of which was adjustable via a potentiometer)

    I tried adjusting the volume level, and tried switching the Output 3 mode (51,17) from the default Speaker setting to DC output.

    Neither has had the deisred result (i.e. I am trying to get back the horn sound), but what has happened is that I can no longer exit Engineering Mode because there is a AUX TAMPER 004 error message now showing.

    I can see threads on this error elsewhere, but cannot understand why it has occurred (i.e. whether I caused it by playing with the OP3 setting) or how to deal with it.

    I have tried a reset 51.17.1, but this has not cleared the error.

    Any advice would be welcome!

    Thanks,
    Jon
     
  2. Sponsored Links
  3. JonM63

    JonM63

    Joined:
    17 Feb 2020
    Messages:
    32
    Thanks Received:
    1
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    It might help if I add that I have wired the outputs as follows:

    For the cable that runs from the panel to the bellbox:

    Yellow core to T (prevously connected to T on the 16+)
    Blue to output 1 (previously connected to A (Bell) on the 16+
    Brown to op2 (not previously connected as old bellbox did not have a strobe)

    The E/E horn was previously connected to terminals marked Hold+ and Hold- on the 16+.
    I've connected the red wire to OP3 and the black to the 0v terminal on the Flex's output block.#

    I have not reprogrammed any outputs from their default state.
     
    Last edited: 8 Mar 2021
  4. GalaxyGuy

    GalaxyGuy

    Joined:
    7 Jan 2014
    Messages:
    834
    Thanks Received:
    136
    Location:
    Fife
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    It's a bit odd that a speaker (horn) would be connected to hold +/- as these are a supply voltage for a bell box. Also, your OP3 wiring is the wrong way round. The black would go to OP3 and the red should go to +12V (use the left vertical block). Are you sure your 'horn' is a speaker and not an active sounder ?
     
  5. JonM63

    JonM63

    Joined:
    17 Feb 2020
    Messages:
    32
    Thanks Received:
    1
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    I'm not sure how to check what kind of speaker / horn is installed..
    But in any case have now reversed the horn connections as you suggested (thank you) and did a full cold restart (51.17.4) to try to clear the error message.
    I then left the panel disconnected from power and battery overnight and did a futher cold restart it this morning,

    The time and date I entered when first installing the panel have been retained by the panel (although the clock is showing the time I disconectd it last night..) suggesting that the reversion to factory settings has not been successful) and more frustratingly, the AUX 004 TAMPER message still showing on the keypad banner.
    This fault message remains when when all output wires have been disconnected, and it is not possible to exit engineer mode.

    As a full factory reset has not cleared the error fault, I am wondering whether I have somehow managed to irreversibly damage the panel? Or whether there is a more complete way to reset the panel than via 51.17.4?

    As I tried to re-install, I noted
    a) it is only possible to walk test on selected zones- the test all zones function is not accepted by the panel, which shows: "No entries", and
    b) the output test does not activate the siren or strobe on the bellbox

    I'm pretty stuck at this point, and would be grateful for any advice / ideas.
     
  6. GalaxyGuy

    GalaxyGuy

    Joined:
    7 Jan 2014
    Messages:
    834
    Thanks Received:
    136
    Location:
    Fife
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    The cold restart will default all settings back to factory. You can tell that this works, as when the panel boots, it asks for country selection.

    With power off, check the resistance of your horn wires. A speaker will be in the 8 to 16 ohm range. If in the kohm range, it will be an active sounder.

    What voltage do you read between 0v and the T tamper return connection ? There should little or no voltage measured between these pins.

    I think you'll need to show the wiring you have for the outputs. OP1 and OP2 are pulled to 0v on activation, so if you put a meter on +12V and the other lead on OP1 or OP2 and activate the output, then the voltage reading should switch from 0v to +12V.
     
  7. JonM63

    JonM63

    Joined:
    17 Feb 2020
    Messages:
    32
    Thanks Received:
    1
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Thanks very much.
    The cold restart did ask for county defaults- i was just surprised that the panel remembered the date and time settings, as I'd expected these to be wiped along with the setup..

    Resistance across the E/E horn is 9 ohms. Now that I;ve reversed the connections as you advised, the horn is now sounding loudly, as previously.

    With all wires disconnected from the output connections on the panel, Voltage between the Tamper and 0v on the output side of the panel is reading 13v .
    Voltage between the Tamper and all of the +12v terminals is zero.
    This is not what you were expecting.

    Pics of the wiring are shown. I've connected +12v cables and 0v cables in terminator blocks, to save fiddling with the screw terminals.
    The output side temper and 0v connections were removed when I took the photos so I could test the voltage.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: 9 Mar 2021
  8. JonM63

    JonM63

    Joined:
    17 Feb 2020
    Messages:
    32
    Thanks Received:
    1
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Just rechecking the voltage- what I reported a few minutes ago is correct. there is 13V vetween the Tamper and 0v on the output block, with no wires connected to these terminals on the panel.

    Also, just to add that I picked up the 12V power (joined via the connector blocks) for all peripherals from the +12v and 0v terminals on the left side block (intellibus).
     
    Last edited: 9 Mar 2021
  9. Sponsored Links
  10. GalaxyGuy

    GalaxyGuy

    Joined:
    7 Jan 2014
    Messages:
    834
    Thanks Received:
    136
    Location:
    Fife
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    I didn't want you to remove the bell tamper connections, as those are what I wanted to measure. The bell tamper return should give a dead short on T to 0V. This should result in 0v being measured between 0v and T when the bell tamper return is connected. Alternatively, to check the panel is ok, you can just add a wire link between 0v and T and if you still have issues after that, the PCB is likely faulty.
     
  11. JonM63

    JonM63

    Joined:
    17 Feb 2020
    Messages:
    32
    Thanks Received:
    1
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    OK, Having reinstated the wiring for the bellbox and horn, I'm getting a reading of 10V between the 0V and Tamper terminals.

    You mention a wire link; Do you mean that I should add this in addition to the connections to the bellbox and leave it in permanently? And if I do so, do you expect this to enable the AUX TAMPER 004 fault to clear and the system be made operable?

    Thanks for the patient support, btw, much appreciated.
     
  12. GalaxyGuy

    GalaxyGuy

    Joined:
    7 Jan 2014
    Messages:
    834
    Thanks Received:
    136
    Location:
    Fife
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Okay, since you are reading 10v when the external siren unit tamper return is connected, this means that the external tamper circuit is not closed. If it was closed (Ie. a dead short to ground), it would pull the T terminal to 0v and you wouldn't read any voltage.

    What I meant by adding a wire link is basically to mimic a good tamper return from the bell box. Adding the wire link will prove the panel is good. It's not good to ignore the tamper return not being correct, as it means either the siren unit is not closed / on the wall properly, or the wiring is not correct (you would also not detect if someone had tampered with the unit). Since you are having issues with the bell and strobe triggers, are you sure the wiring in the siren unit is as you expect?
     
  13. JonM63

    JonM63

    Joined:
    17 Feb 2020
    Messages:
    32
    Thanks Received:
    1
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Thanks. Before I add a wire link, checking the wiring between panel and bellbox sounds like a good idea (if it was wrong, it would also explain why the output test is not activating siren or strobe). The connections seemed straightforward- but that doesn't necessarily mean I've got it right..

    I've wired Bell (on the bellbox side) to Output 1 (panel)- in blue on the attached photos
    Strobe (bellbox side) to Output 2 (in white)
    Tamper to T (yellow)
    12V to 12v (red)
    0v to 0v (black)
    I have not looked at any other connections on the bellbox, nor the jumpers etc.
    I left in place the red and black curled wires with red end covers which were connected to the bellbox connection block at the factory.

    Output 3 on the panel is connected to the 0V (black) horn wire.

    It's worth adding that I first encountered the AUX TAMPER error message yesterday when I connected the old bellbox up. Before resetting the panel this am, I connected up the new bellbox (Texecomm Odessey) instead of the old.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. GalaxyGuy

    GalaxyGuy

    Joined:
    7 Jan 2014
    Messages:
    834
    Thanks Received:
    136
    Location:
    Fife
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    The wiring looks fine. If you are testing on the floor, you will need to insert some material under the tamper switch to close it. You will hear it click when closed. Normally, it would need to be fitted on the wall with the lid screwed closed to close the switch.
     
  15. JonM63

    JonM63

    Joined:
    17 Feb 2020
    Messages:
    32
    Thanks Received:
    1
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Many thanks Galaxy Guy- your note on the tamper switch helped me to sort out the problem.
    Greatly appreciate your patient support and expertise!
     
Loading...

Share This Page