Gap between shower tray & wall

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I have a challenge, for which I would be glad of your advice :-

I took out the old shower because there was leakage which led to rotting floor joists. That's all sorted now.

I have waterproof matting that I want to install next. I have plastic trim to go along the top of the tray, to be fixed behind the tiles, but to project out over the tray upstand.

The two walls that form the corner are not at right angles to each other, by a significant amount. There is a recess that was created previously. This leaves a gap above the tray about 20mm square in the corner, tapering out over about 16 inches from the corner as shown (the tray is not fixed yet, nehce the blue protective film).


The small gap in the corner nearest the camera will be bridged by the tiles and tile adhesive.




My question, then, is – what do I do here ? should I fill that 20mm square gap with render, or with polyfilla, or with silicon sealant ?
Before or after the matting ?
Where do I cut the matting ? Should it continue down the wall behind the tray ?
 
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You would have done better to combine your posts.

Anyhow, first the floor: without the piece of ply, does the shower base tend to rock on the bare floor boards?

What make and material is the base, does it have a plinth or feet. How do you intend to access the waste and trap during installation of the base?

The walls: given that your base does not have fins on the rim you will have to get the installation as water proof as possible or you will end up with the same difficulties again.

The lack of a right angle should be rectified by hacking off and re-plastering (best using S&C render) to a true and plumb right angle.
If you attempt to codge up what you have you will have difficulties with the cuts and grout lines at the inside corner.

If the walls are not plumb you will also have leakage with any shower door/surround jambs.

Dont use any plastic stick-on seal strips - they will give further difficulties down the line. What is the matting that you mention?

Perhaps, attempt to return the base and swap it for one with fins (aka upstands)?

If either wall is a p/b partition come back here.
 
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Thank you for your considered response.

"ree" > first the floor: without the piece of ply, does the shower base tend to rock on the bare floor boards?

No; it's fairly solid.

"ree" > What make and material is the base, does it have a plinth or feet.

I bought it a couple of years ago, when I first stripped out the old shower. It has no labels on it; I can't recall where I bought it ! It's plastic, but not flimsy. "Plastic resin", perhaps ? It's solid, but not too heavy. The underside is black patterned plastic. No plinth; no feet.

"ree" > How do you intend to access the waste and trap during installation of the base?

The waste is in place, and is sealed by a large rubber washer between the trap and the underside of the tray. The trap is secured by screwing the top part into the bottom part, with silicone sealant between. The grating comes off, and the "trap" pot lifts out to clean.

"ree" > The walls: given that your base does not have fins on the rim you will have to get the installation as water proof as possible or you will end up with the same difficulties again.

Agreed.

"ree" > The lack of a right angle should be rectified by hacking off and re-plastering (best using S&C render) to a true and plumb right angle.

I think that is a step too far ;)

"ree" > If you attempt to codge up what you have you will have difficulties with the cuts and grout lines at the inside corner.

Thanks for that warning. I think it'll be O.K.

"ree" > If the walls are not plumb you will also have leakage with any shower door/surround jambs.

Agreed. But the walls are plumb enough.

"ree" > Dont use any plastic stick-on seal strips - they will give further difficulties down the line.

I have been wondering about that. But they sell it, so presumably it works ?

"ree" > What is the matting that you mention?

It's a waterproofing "system", "sold" to me by Mr. Topp. It's a waterproof membrane that goes onto the plaster on the wall, to avoid any seepage through the tiles into the wall.

"ree" > Perhaps, attempt to return the base and swap it for one with fins (aka upstands)?

I'm afraid it's too late for that.

"ree" > If either wall is a p/b partition come back here.

No; both are plastered brick.

Thanks again for your reply.
 

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