Gaps behind kitchen base cabinet

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Hi,

i've installed my kitchen base cabinets, and because the walls aren't straight, the bottom edge of the cabinet is on the wall, but the top / back edge of the cabinet is not level with the wall, which means when securing it to the wall, i had to put some plastic packers behind the cabinet as i had to ensure that the base cabinet remains level. If i didn't use packers, then it would have pulled the cabinet out of level on the front and top edge of the cabinet when drawing it back to the wall.

The gap between wall and back of cabinet is approx 1cm.

Will this become an issue when installing the worktop? ie. will it look stupid if there isnt any overhang / not much overhang? I'm getting a joiner to do the worktop. I just want to be sure that the way i have installed the base cabinets is correct?

thanks
 
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You will probably have a gap/s at the back of the worktop where it meets the wall. An upstand would cover it ,or wall tiling ,most of it.
Is the gap the same along the whole length of the wall ?
 
Oh yes I had forgotten about the upstand/tiles! Ha ha.

It's not as big all the way across but there is a gap most of the way, yes
 
Most walls are not perfectly flat ,or level/ plumb. Tiling / silicone bead usually makes all ok.
 
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Or scribe the units back to the wall so the top of the unit is touching the wall?
 
Or scribe the units back to the wall so the top of the unit is touching the wall?

But scribing it to the wall may leave it level/short over the front of the base units which the OP is concerned about. Good suggestion though and one you could easily do with a 650mm W/T
 
But scribing it to the wall may leave it level/short over the front of the base units which the OP is concerned about. Good suggestion though and one you could easily do with a 650mm W/T

I don’t mean the worktop, I mean the base units themselves. Very common practice
 
things to keep in mind might be:
1. to keep the work top mitre simple the run of units must stay, if at all possible, at ninety degrees to the return run of units.
2. its often simpler to hack small slots in the wall plaster to set back the unit end panels/gables.
3. cutting into the plaster to allow the w/t to set back & present an equal front projection - can sometimes also help.
4. before fixing the units then always run a long straight edge high and low on the wall behind the base & wall cab runs.

in practice, there's rarely an issue esp when fixing a tiled upstand.
 

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