No you don't:I get the testing and notifiable element, I get it...I get it...I f*cking get it.
I have not tested before energising
No you don't:I get the testing and notifiable element, I get it...I get it...I f*cking get it.
I have not tested before energising
He may reply by saying "Yes, but have you had the brakes tested?"if I asked a Policeman whether my car will do 80mph on a motorway, he'll probably reply patronisingly that "I shouldn't because its illegal".
He may reply by saying "Yes, but have you had the brakes tested?"if I asked a Policeman whether my car will do 80mph on a motorway, he'll probably reply patronisingly that "I shouldn't because its illegal".
Seriously, testing is important.
If you're as keen on doing the work and, presumably, like doing it, why not get a test meter - some cheapies on ebay - then you will know if the work is safe.
You never know; you may have made a mistake.
you never know, you may have made a mistake.
you never know, you may have made a mistake.
exactly... however much you concentrate and know your job, very occasionally you may come across an instance where you have reversed the polarity at a socket outlet or pinched a live conductor whilst screwing up a plate. its rare but dead testing and then rectifying the fault before energising is then not bad workman ship. too many people just do the bang test.
you could hire and muti function tester. but you will need to know the tests and sequence involved and how to do them. look up GN3 for a starting point and then consider if you want to go ahead. Gn3 however will not tell you the correct installation methods.
They must - there is absolutely no justification for DIYers to work to a lower standard of safety than a professional.My tests won't replace those of an electrician,
The important tests are the ones electricians do.but I'd like to at least be able to do the basics and the important tests.
It's good.I have used Fluke equipment in the past, its bloody brilliant but I can't account for their electrics range,
would something like this suffice?
http://isswww.co.uk/VoltageContinui...with-Holster-and-IAC/?source=googleps[/QUOTE]
That's basically a multimeter. Won't do.
Or this perhaps?
http://www.easupplies.com/EXTECH-CB10KIT-Electrical-Troubleshooting-Kit-p/ti14ak.htm[/QUOTE]
That does things you don't need (circuit breaker finder??), and does not do things you do (continuity tester? Appears to have just red/green lights - no measurement indication). Voltage detector/flashlight - that little torch with croc clips?). It does not look like it was designed for the UK market.
It is not GS38 compliant.
You need:(a & b are often combined)
- Insulation Resistance tester
- Continuity tester
- Earth Fault Loop Impedance tester
- RCD tester
Or a multifunction tester.
And the testers need to be the sort that give readings of actual values.
If you want to energise it must.I appreciate that testing myself doesn't replace an electrician's full test,
You ought to be able to get decent s/h kit on eBay for £2-300 - depends how lucky you are and/or how long you want to wait for a bargain to turn up. And turn up they do - this recent one was particularly good, I thought: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/METREL-61557-MULTIFUNCTION-TESTER-LOOP-RCD-INS-CONT-/320764399772can you point me to some sub £200 (ideally) kits that would be worth considering? Hoping to buy something this week if possible!
If you can get a multifunction, or set of 3, testers with calibration certificate(s) for £300 or less consider that a result.
Setting yourself a deadline of a week is going to need a lot of luck.
Be quick. Free tester.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Robin-Dig..._ET&hash=item4600f4ead3#ht_605wt_1306[/QUOTE]
Very good price for that lot.
IMO it would be wise, when bidding on something like that, to contact the seller and ask him if he would be happy to make the deal conditional on him getting the kit successfully calibrated for an extra £100 on top of the selling price. If he says no, realise that you are taking a risk if you bid, because you are going to have to fork out that £100 or so and might find there's something wrong.
As long as everything is protected by the fuse in the FCU then you can have whatever you wish.
If you have a light in the garage this will need another FCU with 3A or 5A fuse.
Since April 6th this work - outside power - is no longer notifiable but as above it should, of course, be tested to ensure that it is safe.
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