Garage internals

[vagabond]

hello first post
I know this has been covered a million times but so many times it makes it hard to find all the information so this is my attempt to gather it .

I have inherited with my new house a double garge, single skin concrete section board construction with metal roof beams running width ways and supporting a corrugated roof.

i don't want to make the garage external room all I want to do is insulate the walls and roof. I can fit a rcb and electrics.

I would like help with the bets way to insulate the walls, and how to put a internal insulation roof in, or will i need to lift the roof in order to insulate it.

All help appreciated.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Hello and welcome to the forum, I will try my best to point you in the right direction as will other members I'm sure.

Best results for wall would be,
stud wall frame timber or metal, 50mm kingspan/celotex board inserted behind frame and joints taped with self adhesive aluminium tape, you could use rock wool.
Then fit thermaline board, this product can be bought with a vapour check barrier, you need a vapour barrier.

a few additional ques;
What do you intend to do with the ceiling, joist out or fill between current set up?
What pitch is the roof?
Is it detached from the house?
Do you need electrical help?

Remember when installing electrics part p of build regs most be complied to and certain calculation for cables need to be made when routed through thermal insulation.

Links
http://www.insulation.kingspan.com/uk/pdf/tw55.pdf
http://www.british-gypsum.com/produ...es/gyproc_thermal/gyproc_thermaline_plus.aspx
http://www.british-gypsum.com/products/plasterboard___accessories/gyproc_moisture_resistant.aspx
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:part_p

 

[vagabond]

a few additional ques;
What do you intend to do with the ceiling, joist out or fill between current set up?
What pitch is the roof?
Is it detached from the house?
Do you need electrical help?

Thanks for the help so far, the garage is fully detached from the house and is a two swing door double garage.
The roof is pitched I believe 18inches at the front to flush at the back(sorry don't know correct terminology)
The current set up of roof is metal joist spanning the width, the joists are only lipped on one side and are made from two pieces of angle bar facing the rear joined by angle bar spacers each one is slightly bigger than the last from back to front to give the pitch. This is one of my main stumbling blocks how to attach roof insulation and cieling boards boards! I am looking at ways to attach joist netting to hold the insulation roll, but its how to attach boards i'm unsure of

Electrics I have in hand I'm having a new fuse board fitted in the house, I have fitted a rcb with external armored to the new board and the garage is being wired from this. (sparky is signing it all off)
this will give me power and strips and ability to have heating, also running network cable on same run cos i' am a geek (garage is only 15m from house)

All help appreciated.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Fixings like these and wooden timbers.
http://www.vistaeng.co.uk/09_tf.html
You could hold the insulation up with a vapour barrier but kingspan/celotex type can be lodged in or a tacked underneath so rest on tack and a duplex board then used as vapour barrier.

 

[vagabond]

Fixings like these and wooden timbers.
http://www.vistaeng.co.uk/09_tf.html
You could hold the insulation up with a vapour barrier but kingspan/celotex type can be lodged in or a tacked underneath so rest on tack and a duplex board then used as vapour barrier.

The garage walls are concrete section, I am unsure about drilling them hence I was looking for a way to fix to the metal work. I am generally considering suspended ceiling with metal collar clamps to attach (much like modern offices)
And then suspending the insulation above this.

I cnat find a diagram right now but you can get two pieces of box section and they bolt together pinching the joist, and hosting the cable for the roof(hope that makes sense) I believe i may be refering to metal trusses!

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Yes makes sense;
This may help
http://www.british-gypsum.com/products/gypframe_metal_products.aspx
if you also download the White Book you may find that interesting.
But drilling through concrete should be no more trouble than drilling through masonry.

 

[Deluks]

I wouldn't fancy drilling concrete panels, not on hammer anyway. If you can access the exterior of the building then remove the coach bolts holding the thing together and replace with much longer ones. Then you could drill holes in 2x2 and thread them over the bolts.,
Buy the bolts the right length, or cut to size so that they don't protrude all the way through the timber, and use a flat drill bit to recess for the nut. Then you can board straight onto this.

 

[vagabond]

I wouldn't fancy drilling concrete panels, not on hammer anyway. If you can access the exterior of the building then remove the coach bolts holding the thing together and replace with much longer ones. Then you could drill holes in 2x2 and thread them over the bolts.,
Buy the bolts the right length, or cut to size so that they don't protrude all the way through the timber, and use a flat drill bit to recess for the nut. Then you can board straight onto this.

I like the idea but the coach bolts run parallel to walls internally, i am considering two options
one is cutting teh insulation board and plaster board to size so one end sits on lip the other snug against back of next joist and then as mentioned before a 2x1 bead drilled and placed so to form a lip (not drilling the metal work as will reduce the strength) means roof internals will not be flat but will (or should) look ok(like a stepped roof)
then the exterior wall made as box section and basically affixed to the wall by making 2by1 section counter drilled with tnuts fitted in so can be remove later if desired. wall will protrude more than most but should work.

second option is welding lips on to the metal work and tapped plate sonto the ends of teh metal joist to fix the boards to? just need a friendly wielder and metal worker! but its not that bad an option?

 

[Deluks]

Can't picture any of that, sorry. OK, try this. Try drilling the panels where they join, as you are right on the edge of the panel, the concrete shouldn't crack. Don't use hammer and use a decent drill bit such as a bosch multi. Then fix timber straight in through these pilot holes using frame screws.

 

[vagabond]

Can't picture any of that, sorry. OK, try this. Try drilling the panels where they join, as you are right on the edge of the panel, the concrete shouldn't crack. Don't use hammer and use a decent drill bit such as a bosch multi. Then fix timber straight in through these pilot holes using frame screws.

i'll give that a trytoo? i'll try get some photos of the garage roof as that will help with this.