Gate latch

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I am racking my brains on this one and hoping you can help me out with a simple solution please.
I have this gate at the back of my house that I built a few years ago and it's a pain to lock and unlock. Will explain....

viewed from inside the garden
1754399415847.png


gate closes against this
1754399478889.png


featheredged and view from outside
1754399515211.png


I've got these on the inside:
1754399554676.png


I was hoping that the top bolt could be used from the inside and we can reach over to lock/unlock from the outside too. Neither of my old folks are tall enough! Which means they either leave the gate unlocked and it flaps around or someone locks from the inside and they have to have someone open to let them in each time.

Also, I don't want a highly engineered lock or anything like that as the gate expands and contracts which will cause issues and not great for emergency exit, etc.

With another gate I used a simple latch lick this which can be opened/closed from both sides but can't see how that will work with this gate.
1754399757669.png


Can I get some advice on this please. Thanks in advance.
 

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I have the model with a release on inner gate so you only need a key from exterior .
Main problem with you gate design is it’s too wide meeting the wall instead of a wood post which would allow use of most gate latches.
 
There's no role for the keep in my set-up? I would drill a hole in the wooden batten for the lock to slot into?
 
I think I'd be looking to fit an additional bit of timber here to fit the lock to.

1754405447986.png


As above the lack of a post at the latch side means you'll have to cut a hole in the wall.
 
If you reposition the gate to the right by moving the hinge, or close it slightly less deep, so you have room for a post on the lock side, it will all become easier.
 
If you reposition the gate to the right by moving the hinge, or close it slightly less deep, so you have room for a post on the lock side, it will all become easier.
I don't follow. to make space for a post on the lock side, do I not need to shorten the gate by the same amount? That means the whole gate and braces need to be pulled apart. A lot of work I feel.
 
As I read it, you're looking for access from outside for your folks, not necessarily a security closing ? If so, in Freddies' photograph in post #8, where the ' red box' is drawn, just cut a hole big enough for a hand to go in ?
 
I don't follow. to make space for a post on the lock side, do I not need to shorten the gate by the same amount? That means the whole gate and braces need to be pulled apart. A lot of work I feel.
I think that if you opened the gate by, say, six inches, you would open up a gap from the wall, and you could put in a post to take up this room. If would be along the wall a short distance from the current closing position.

You could attach various latch or lock fittings to this new post.

You could also alter the position of the gate by moving the position of the hinge plate on the hinge post.

That would remove the need to shorten the gate.
 
If you wanted a lock, the FB4 rim latch can be opened with a key from the outside, and a knob from the inside.

There are various qualities, but IMO the cast-metal case by Union ( to a Wellington design) is particularly durable. It is based on the Wellington lock used on many substations and utility cabins. I think it is pretty good on a shed or gate (though the FB4 key is simplified)

Some manufacturers offer a pressed-steel case version which I think is not as good.

Here's an example, the FB4 sometimes crops up at a clearance price.

 
Can't see the point of a latch you can reach to open from the outside.
Gatemates the way to go.(y)
 

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