Glazing a window.

1 Jan 2007
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United Kingdom
I have just had a window frame made for me which I have to install in an old outhouse and then glaze. I am not a builder, I am an engineer. The window is very simple, no opening panes, and I was given the beading ready mitred for a perfect fit. I would like to put 4mm glass in it and if I used putty instead of the beading that would work (I think !) but the rebate isn't that big and while I can use the bead I would need to use some kind of glazing sealant out of a cartridge instead of putty because I will get a bit short of space.

My question is am I thinking along the right lines or should I forget the beading and putty both sides of the glass even though my experience of puttying is very limited. Any help would be really appreciated and thanks in advance.
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Just use low modulus clear silicone , using the beads, much easier , much quicker...silicone rebate , put glass in, silicone round glass, pin beads on. Puttying is time consuming and unless you are practiced in it , can look messy!
That's brilliant. Thank you very much Ronnie. Any trade names for a low modulus clear silicone ?
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Sorry guys but I need a bit more help please. I'm about to install the frame. Then it's time to buy the glass. Could someone give me a general guide as to the relationship between each light and the size of glass I need to have cut please ? i.e. what is the generally accepted tolerance between the size of the pane of glass and the hole that it's going in to ? Thanks in advance for any help.
I've got yet another question - sorry ! In my position is it better to fit the glass when the frame has been fixed in or do I fix the frame, unfix it, glaze it, and then put it back in again ? Thanks in advance for any help.
Generally glaze after fitting as it makes like easier.
As long as the window is square a 5mm deduction on width and height should be ample

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