Glowworm 50 tripping out - condensation...

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Hello everyone!

We have a problem with our Glowworm 50 tripping out the electrics.
Our boiler is in the garage. The hot water is on 24hrs a day and the heating comes in twice a day. The boiler is 4 years old. We put the central heating back on since end of september and everything was fine until about 3 weeks ago.

When I removed the white metal casing and the front inner panel, I realised there was water on various parts which was obviously tripping the electrics. (Thank goodness for RCD switch!).

I did not find a leak on any pipes within the boiler (or outside for that matter) but I have not opened the inner box where the box where the flame is... (and I'm not going to!)

At first I thought it was to do with the small plastic tank (for the condensation) which is found at the bottom of the boiler at the back. As it was full, I thought there was a blockage in the plastic tank or on the drain pipe. Took the tank out, cleaned it (it was a little mucky for some reasons), checked the pipe... only to realise that the fact that the tank was full of water was probably normal as there are 3 compartments within it and the water only escape through the drain if these 3 compartments are full. I suppose it is a way to make sure only cold-er water drains out...

In any case the water seem to come from the top of the boiler, above the fan. I took apart the elbow at the top and pulled out the flu (spelling?) pipe out of the air duct. (sorry my spelling may be dramatically wrong for these words - I hope you understand what I mean). The large square gasket between the elbow and the boiler is completely ruined. although I am not sure what purpose that gasket serves).

Anyway there was quite a lot of water in the air duct and the flu pipe. I dried everything and put everything back together. (Putting it down to extremely bad rain we had the week before which could have potentially gone into the air duct).

However only 3 or 4 days later, the whole electricity started tripping again, open the boiler and there was lots of condensation on all the panels inside. Took out the elbow with the flu pipe and both the flu pipe and the air duct were both very wet.

Now I have been now running the boiler for the past two weeks without the outer (white) casing and without the gray front panel. I don't know if it makes any difference, but I also regularly empty the condensation tank.

As everything is open, there are obviously no condensation happening inside and everything stays as dry as a bone. So it's working.
I can't see anything leaking from the fan and the fan seem to be working well as steam can clearly be seen coming out of the flu pipe on the other side of the wall.

I checked the flu pipe and the air duct at the week-end and there was some water in them (again).

So I don't know where to go from there. Any ideas? :?:

I am convinced that if I put the front panel and the outer casing back on, condensation inside will start to trip the electrics again... Could it be the fan that is leaking? or not working properly?

All help would be really appreciated. :D

Many thanks,

David
XoioX
 
Sounds like a energy saver condensing boiler please confirm. if it is the fan can leak and water goes on to the o/heat stat. You can take fan off and smear lsx around the seal. The cond. trap/siphon should fill and empty. If the flue is broken then cond. can drip and fall into the air intake and drip on to the o/heat stat. They do leak and often rust the top heat exchanger often leaks;they are really badly designed.
 
gasgeezer thank you very much for your quick reply!

I'll check that out tonight!!! And let you know asap!

they are really badly designed.

I know nothing about boilers, but somehow I tend to agree for that one! :)
 
If the seal is broke between the fan and the flue you will get fumes full of condensation getting dragged back into the boiler making everything damp. Because you have left the front off ( which i wouldnt recomend )
it is getting dry air from within the garage . As gasgeezer has said the fan can also leak around the seal and the water cooled burner at the bottom of the appliance can sometimes go. I would start with getting the flue seal repaired.
 
I would also remind you that dealing with the flue should normally be by a CORGi registered engineer on account of the safety implications.

Tony Glazier
 
Hi XoioX, did you manage to fix your problem with the water/condensation? I ask because I've got something similar that has just started the last couple of days.

My Glowworm condensing EnergySaver 50E boiler (5 years old) started leaking water underneath. Took the white and silver panels off to reveal the innards but like you did not take the combustion box cover off. No obvious water leaks from pipes anywhere, but the water is dripping out the bottom left-hand front corner of the combustion box where the front panel is.

Now I'm wondering what the problem might be as it has only started since the snow and frost have appeared (or is that coincidental) or is it the heat exchanger in the combustion box that has a leak. The hot water and the central heating are all working fine.

So I'd like to know what your problem turned out to be. If anyone has some alternative suggestions, then they are most welcome.

Regards
Gordon
 
If the heat exchanger was leaking the system pressure would fall.

Freezing weather can increase the amount of condensation particularly in the flue. I would guess a faulty flue seal or in a boiler of your age possible corrosion of the flue components.

This needs a CORGI engineer because of the safety implications.

Tony Glazier
 
Agile said:
This needs a CORGI engineer because of the safety implications.
Whilst it's prudent to employ the services of a CORGI registered business, please note that the law requires only that the person working on the appliance is competent.
 
I doubt that you would say that if you were CORGI registered yourself or had even studied the GSUR 1998.

In any case the normally accepted definition of "competent " in relation to gas work is to have achieved passes in the relevant ACS modules.

Tony
 
Agile said:
I doubt that you would say that if you were CORGI registered yourself or had even studied the GSUR 1998.
I am not CORGI registered and have never claimed to be. Whether or not I would say if it if I were registered requires assumptions and conjecture, which I'll leave to you.

Agile said:
In any case the normally accepted definition of "competent " in relation to gas work is to have achieved passes in the relevant ACS modules.
That is glaringly untrue, since the relevant leglislation recognises both competency and being of a registered class of persons.

You give a good impression of someone who has either not read, or not understood, the legislation that governs qualification and registration. If you yourself ARE registered, then that is a foolish omission.
 
You first said:-

"""Whilst it's prudent to employ the services of a CORGI registered business, please note that the law requires only that the person working on the appliance is competent."""

Now you seem to be agreeing that they need to have the ACS and ALSO to be a member of a class of persons ( that means CORGI ) which is what I originally said. I agree with that of course. But your seem to have changed your tune!

If you think that you are so knowledgeable then I am surprised that you dont become CORGI registered yourself!

Tony
 
Agile said:
You first said:-

"Whilst it's prudent to employ the services of a CORGI registered business, please note that the law requires only that the person working on the appliance is competent."
Indeed I did. You have quoted me verbatim.

Agile said:
Now you seem to be agreeing that they need to have the ACS and ALSO to be a member of a class of persons ( that means CORGI ) which is what I originally said. I agree with that of course. But your seem to have changed your tune!
I see no point at which I've changed my tune. A householder does not need to either have ACS or be CORGI registered. It could be that you've read the word "recognises" as "requires" - these are two different words with distinctly different meanings.

Agile said:
If you think that you are so knowledgeable then I am surprised that you dont become CORGI registered yourself!
That's a fatuous statement. The only knoweldge I claim to have on this subject, apart from a decent grasp of English grammar, is where to find the relevant legislation. I do not intend to become CORGI registered, but I undertake, competently and legally, all the boiler repair work that I need to; and for the work that I cannot legally undertake, I call upon the services of a CORGI registered business.
 
the system pressure will fail only if it is sealed system they can be fitted to open vent as well
 

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