Gravity valve on Powermax

[ceecjc1]

Guys,

I have a Powermax boiler which contains a heat store, as you'll be familiar with. The problem is that the radiators get warm whenever the boiler is on, even of the central heating is off.

I figured this was a dodgy valve so got HeatTeam in to fix it but upon arrival the guy said that Powermaxes don't have such a valve. Apparently I'm supposed to have a gravity valve on the central heating pipe to stop the hot water from the heat store floating around the central heating system when the heat store pump is running (ie the boiler is heating up).

Does anyone know if this is correct? If, as I'm assuming, it is, then how much will it cost to install one?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Onetap]

Yes, I had one. You get gravity circulation when the CH pump is off.

I fitted a 2-port zone valve. You can use a check (non-return) valve, but it should be a spring-check valve. I had previously fitted a swing check valve and the gravity circulation was strong enough to push it open.

You will find it hard to get anyone to work on a Powermax, so I'd suggest you should plan on replacing it at some time. I found mine to be very reliable, but I was aware of their problems and had ensured mine was not susceptible. The person who approved the maintenance access arrangements should have been flogged with the turbulator things.

 

[ceecjc1]

Thanks for that information, I guess I'll have to get a valve installed or put up with the radiators being constantly warm. I know I can turn the valves off to mitigate the problem but if I do that then when I actually want the heating on it becomes a bit of a trial to go round and turn each radiator back to the correct setting.

How much did you pay to get a valve installed, if you don't mind my asking?

And I'd agree with your remarks about replacing the Powermax. It's doing fine at the moment but as soon as anyone comes near it, for example at its annual service next week, my wallet runs and hides behind the couch. I'll replace it when it eventually goes wrong an hope that's a long time away.

 

[andytw]

Hi,
I had exactly the same experience with a swing valve so in the end I too fitted a zone valve.
I used the power to the pump to open the valve and the microswitch in the actuator was then used to turn on the pump.

Couple of images below

Untitled

• andytw
• 9 Mar 2012
• 1

Untitled

• andytw
• 9 Mar 2012
• 1

andytw

 

[ceecjc1]

Thanks AndyTW! That looks exactly like mine, so I guess I could do the same.

Did you do it yourself or get a gas safe guy in to do it?

 

[Onetap]

Did you do it yourself or get a gas safe guy in to do it?

It's not work on the gas or combustion train, so you don't need a gas safe man. You can do it yourself, if you're competent. The Gas Safe blokes will run away when you say the magic word; 'Powermax'.

 

[ceecjc1]

The Gas Safe blokes will run away when you say the magic word; 'Powermax'.

Indeed.

I've got a warranty with HeatTeam for the boiler but I haven't used them yet. Failing that I know two reliable PowerMax experts who I'd be able to call on, though they're very expensive (hence the HeatTeam warranty in the first instance).

 

[andytw]

Hi,

I discussed it with my engineer and as the gas and combustion sides would retain integrity I did it myself.

Couple of tips :-

The manual says to not plumb across the front bottom of the boiler. Mine was plumbed here so I re-plumbed. This is to allow access to the 'sump'.

The position of the new valve does not allow access to the actuator screws to remove the actuator head on failure. I have had one failure so had to use pipe wrench to turn the valve body on the pipe to allow the actuator to be replaced. Then re-positioned valve and tightened up.

Looking at the pictures I do not know why I didn't fit the valve immediately below the CH pump, there may be reason.

I used a valve and actuator that were a cheaper copy of the Honeywell. Yes, it was cheaper, but as I have had to replace the actuator it was false economy. I have now fitted a Honeywell actuator.

HTH

andytw

 

[Onetap]

Failing that I know two reliable PowerMax experts who I'd be able to call on, though they're very expensive (hence the HeatTeam warranty in the first instance).

This man's in Berkshire, is he one of your two?

http://www.powermax-repairs.co.uk/

He seesm to know the Powermax & the website is very useful.

 

[Onetap]

Looking at the pictures I do not know why I didn't fit the valve immediately below the CH pump, there may be reason.

My one was similar, a Honeywell zone valve but fitted outside the boiler casing.

 

[ceecjc1]

Failing that I know two reliable PowerMax experts who I'd be able to call on, though they're very expensive (hence the HeatTeam warranty in the first instance).

This man's in Berkshire, is he one of your two?

http://www.powermax-repairs.co.uk/

He seesm to know the Powermax & the website is very useful.

Yes this is one of the guys I've used in the past. He's very good and doesn't run away when he hears the P word.

 

[ceecjc1]

Hi,

I discussed it with my engineer and as the gas and combustion sides would retain integrity I did it myself.

Couple of tips :-

The manual says to not plumb across the front bottom of the boiler. Mine was plumbed here so I re-plumbed. This is to allow access to the 'sump'.

The position of the new valve does not allow access to the actuator screws to remove the actuator head on failure. I have had one failure so had to use pipe wrench to turn the valve body on the pipe to allow the actuator to be replaced. Then re-positioned valve and tightened up.

Looking at the pictures I do not know why I didn't fit the valve immediately below the CH pump, there may be reason.

I used a valve and actuator that were a cheaper copy of the Honeywell. Yes, it was cheaper, but as I have had to replace the actuator it was false economy. I have now fitted a Honeywell actuator.

HTH

andytw

Thanks for these tips! My boiler had a service this morning so I had a look inside to see what was what. I have some of the flexible metal pipes instead of solid plumbing, so it looks slightly different to yours. I am not particularly competent with these things so will get a proper plumber in to do the work.